Belgian Beer, Trappists, Abbeys, and Official Designations

Many speak of Belgian beers with reverence, many of Abbey beers, and many simply (or specifically) of Trappist beers.  Many others are simply confused (isn't beer beer?  Monks make beer?  How can Belgian beers be made outside of Belgium?)  Some others, like... ahem... myself, have a slightly faulty memory and err on public blogs.

Despite my correction, I hope to also make this post clarifying and enlightening by, first, considering what Trappists and Trappist  Beers are and, second, distinguishing them by style and from Belgian/Abbey beer designations.

Trappists themselves are Benedictine monks who, as prescribed by Saint Benedict, strive to sustain themselves through quality production and sale of goods rather than through tithes and community contributions/donations.  Though Trappists also make cheese, liquor, wine, bread, soups, cleaning products, religious products, artwork, and more, they are famous in the beer community for their remarkable (and remarkably) strong ales.

Trappist Beers are, technically, only those marked by the Authentic Trappist Product hexagonal logo (easily found by google search) according to criteria set out by the International Trappist Association to protect their brands (which are not only beers). Amongst other criteria that are less pertinent herein, this logo essentially means that the product was made within the walls of the monastery either by monks themselves or at least under their supervision, while much of the proceeds go towards charitable endeavours.

Of late, this meant there were seven Official Trappist breweries, recalled by many via the memorable acronym WOW RACK:

Westvleteren (who sell a Blonde, a Dubbel [8], and a Quadrupel [12])
Orval (who sell a unique Belgian Pale Ale only)
Westmalle (who sell a Dubbel and a Tripel)
Rochefort (who sell two different strength Dubbels [6 and 8] and a Quadrupel [10])
Achel (who sell two Tripels [Blonde and Extra Blonde] a Dubbel [Bruin] and a Strong Dark/Quadrupel [Extra Bruin])
Chimay (who sell a Dubbel [Premiere/Red], a Tripel [White], and a Strong Dark [Grand Reserve/Blue])
Koningshoeven (or La Trappe, who sell nine different beers including the standard Blonde, Dubbel, Tripel, Quadrupel, and an oak-aged version of their Quadrupel)

However, it was widely known that another would be coming soon, presumably from Mont des Cats, and surprisingly, it was officially beaten to official designation by Austrian monastery Stift-Engelszell.  Mont des Cats, however, despite being allowed to call itself a "Biere Trappistes" (and the first from France, with the others all being in Belgium, except for Koningshoeven from the Netherlands and the newest from Austria) does not and will not for the foreseeable future carry the Authentic Trappist Product label - despite being brewed within the halls of a Trappist monastery by the monks themselves, since it is being brewed and bottled at Chimay's monastery as Mont des Cats lacks its own brewery.  Stift-Engelszell, however, does carry the official designation, thus officially being the eighth Trappist brewery (and the ninth may not even be Mont des Cats since "The Trappist monks of the Abbey of ‘Maria Toevlucht’ in Zundert have plans to start a brewery between the walls of their Abbey."

I had inadvertently recalled Mont des Cats as being the eighth in my prior blog post, but it is not officially the eighth - though it is the unofficial ninth in many ways!

For me, personally, the new acronym to recall this next time is WOW RACKS (or perhaps, WOW RACKS 'eM, I guess!)

Belgian beer styles - and not only those of Trappist production - developed a unique history through their geographical exemption from the Reinheitsgebot, often called the German (or Bavarian) Beer Purity Law which allowed them to experiment with different adjuncts (as well as through the specific qualities of their divergent yeast strains and their bottle-conditioned processes unlinked to the Purity Law).

Throughout European history, when water was potentially contaminated and untrustworthy, beer supported human survival (insofar as boiling killed parasites and beer wort had been boiled, but this wasn't known to be the reason at the time!)  Monasteries, as most other religious locations, had become the centre of local life and even those that didn't sell their product also brewed beer for their own consumption (and literal survival).  These beers, called paters (or, occasionally in contrast, 'singels') are still frequently brewed, but solely for the consumption of the monks and they are typically much weaker than their stronger, publicly sold counterparts.

Westmalle seemed to invent both of the styles we now, following their lead, call Dubbels and Tripels.  Though these terms often simply imply colour and alcoholic strength, as well as specific taste and aroma characteristics, they have at times reflected the gravity difference on the old scale - with the original gravity quite literally being double and triple that of the specific monastery's standard pater.

A dubbel is a strong brown ale that is bottle-conditioned (that is, primed with sugar to feed the living and unfiltered yeast within the bottle that continues to ferment and develop past the point of bottling), while a tripel is a strong(er typically) pale ale that is also bottle conditioned.  For flavour, aroma, colour, and other typical style guidelines, I link here to their descriptors from the Beer Judge Certification Program: Dubbel, Tripel.  Chimay premiere (otherwise called Chimay Red) is probably the most widely known dubbel, though I personally adore the Rochefort 8 (and long to try the much rarer Westvleteren 8).  Westmalle Tripel - the first tripel - is the standard against which all others are judged, though I personally found it less enjoyable when consumed side-by-side with the Achel Extra Blonde (even if the Westmalle defines the style and is still a clearly great beer!)

There is considerable debate as to whether a quadrupel exists as a distinct style, whether it is simply a poor differentiation from the "Belgian Strong Dark Ale" style, or whether it is simply an amped-up dubbel.  (This debate centers around the fact that the term was applied anachronistically to pre-existing beers rather than given to beers created to fit the criteria of a pre-existing style).  Regardless, and without siding in the debate herein, this characterization tells you what to expect from a quadrupel or Belgian Strong Dark Ale, again with the BJCP descriptor here.  Westvleteren 12 - often dubbed the best beer in the world - is perhaps the best known quadrupel, though the style is highly praised (when done well as it is difficult to sustain the alcohol without booziness and the resulting complexity of the style) and many of the highest rated beers on BA and RateBeer are quads/strong darks.

Yet, many praised versions of these - and other Belgian styles - are not made by Trappists (nor in Belgium) at all.  These are often called Abbey beers - a term literally without precise meaning as they could be made by non-Benedictine monks, outside of the Trappist Association's terms, or simply by a commercial brewery (occasionally masking their product as if to make it appear monastic).  St. Bernardus, Leffe, and Affligem are three famous Abbey brewers, though many others exist.

Personally, I care little for the Trappist (or Authentic Trappist) or Abbey designation and am much more concerned with the primary question of "is it a good beer?"  And, many Abbey beers certainly are, while many aren't, yet the Trappists are always of a high quality if still subject to the inevitable value of personal taste.

These - live, bottle-conditioned - beers tend to be very sweet with strong carbonation and often cater to both beer lovers and non-beer drinkers alike.  If you have the chance, I encourage you to taste them, and if you find any Stift-Engelszell or Wesvleteren, please let me know where I can procure some to advance my Trappist enjoyment!  (Note that expensive 6-packs of the famed Westvleteren 12 may be coming to Ontario soon - if briefly - though more on that when the news arrives and accordingly permits!)

A Dubbel and a Quad: The Weekend Allowed a Few Nice Trappist Tastings

This past weekend I managed to taste a Trappist dubbel and quadrupel, at Toronto's Sin & Redemption, that I had not, as yet, gotten my hands on.

Before I turn to the two I just tried, I am going to go on public record as saying, I have never been a huge fan of the modest amount of Abbey and Trappist beers that I have tried.  That said, I like them.  I just didn't get the super-hype.  I think the live yeasts don't always sit as well with me in practice as in theory, though the complexity is remarkable.  Or maybe it is simply my evolving palate.  But the last few Abbey/Trappist beers I have had are either better, or they are growing on me!

Regardless, I generally prefer a dubbel to a tripel, and (due to their Ontario/LCBO scarcity) had yet to try a quad.  So I was excited to try a La Trappe Quadrupel on draft when I found it (without realizing they'd be at the LCBO a few days later!) and a bottled Rochefort 8.

The Quad review stands alone for me since my frame of reference is to Trappist beers generally, as opposed to other quads (though some St. Bernardus Abt 12 and Rochefort 10's are on their way to my beer cellar in the near future).

The Quad (with an ABV of 10%) has the typical yeasty cloudiness of many Trappist ales alongside a nice deep amber colour that could perhaps even be described as copper.  The draft poured an ever-so-slightly off-white head with relatively poor retention, though it offered a smooth, creamy lacing while it lasted.

Aromas of cloves, cherry, pear and apricot could be discerned (alongside slight traces of rye bread) amidst the yeasty/malty combination that characterizes these extreme beers.

It is difficult to describe this taste, but it offers a warming spicy/sweetness.  That is to say, I was met with a more subtle, balanced, and drying semblance of the notes present in its fruity aromas, while more strongly affected by clove and cinnamon (yeasty) spiciness, alongside a bit of banana.

On the mouth, this beer is medium-bodied (or perhaps light for its style) though it is slightly creamy and its high alcohol percentage is slightly evident both in taste and in the smoothing/warming sensations in the mouth.  My first sip could almost be described as syrupy, though this diminishes as the beer does and the warmth becomes more present as the glass goes on.

It is a very nice beer, but my lack of any other quadrupel frame of reference makes me rate it against other Belgians and strictly my own tastes.  I see the complexity of this style and did enjoy drinking this beer, but would not buy it regularly.  It is a treat, but perhaps not my favourite treat.  B+

The gem I once again save for last.  The Trappistes Rochefort 8, a dubbel with 9.2% ABV, delighted me (and I intend to pick up some more alongside the 10 for the pending quad comparison).

This dubbel pours a nice beige head with good retention that offers a very smooth, creamy lace.  It presents a nice deep, dark brown colour with semi-cloudiness.

On the nose, aromas ranged from stronger hints of hearty bread, sweet figs and molasses to lighter semblances of chocolate and bananas.

Taste-wise, look for a delicious fruity malt characterized by sweet figs, though not to the exclusion of a drying finish.  On the tongue, this delicious beer is finely balanced between a creaminess and a prickly carbonation which masks the high alcohol very well!

After the quad, my first taste of this beer was underwhelmed, if pleasant, but by the end of the glass I was licking my chops in delight, such that I ordered another.  Unlike many high-alcohol brews, this one just gets sweeter and tastier and by the end of my second I was even more thrilled with the beer and, as I had devoured three 9%+ beers, my notes become less legible (which is odd, since I typed them into my phone)!  Regardless, the Rochefort 8 is easily my favourite Belgian and favourite Trappist beer so far, and ranks among my favourite beers in general. A+