Belgian Beer, Trappists, Abbeys, and Official Designations

Many speak of Belgian beers with reverence, many of Abbey beers, and many simply (or specifically) of Trappist beers.  Many others are simply confused (isn't beer beer?  Monks make beer?  How can Belgian beers be made outside of Belgium?)  Some others, like... ahem... myself, have a slightly faulty memory and err on public blogs.

Despite my correction, I hope to also make this post clarifying and enlightening by, first, considering what Trappists and Trappist  Beers are and, second, distinguishing them by style and from Belgian/Abbey beer designations.

Trappists themselves are Benedictine monks who, as prescribed by Saint Benedict, strive to sustain themselves through quality production and sale of goods rather than through tithes and community contributions/donations.  Though Trappists also make cheese, liquor, wine, bread, soups, cleaning products, religious products, artwork, and more, they are famous in the beer community for their remarkable (and remarkably) strong ales.

Trappist Beers are, technically, only those marked by the Authentic Trappist Product hexagonal logo (easily found by google search) according to criteria set out by the International Trappist Association to protect their brands (which are not only beers). Amongst other criteria that are less pertinent herein, this logo essentially means that the product was made within the walls of the monastery either by monks themselves or at least under their supervision, while much of the proceeds go towards charitable endeavours.

Of late, this meant there were seven Official Trappist breweries, recalled by many via the memorable acronym WOW RACK:

Westvleteren (who sell a Blonde, a Dubbel [8], and a Quadrupel [12])
Orval (who sell a unique Belgian Pale Ale only)
Westmalle (who sell a Dubbel and a Tripel)
Rochefort (who sell two different strength Dubbels [6 and 8] and a Quadrupel [10])
Achel (who sell two Tripels [Blonde and Extra Blonde] a Dubbel [Bruin] and a Strong Dark/Quadrupel [Extra Bruin])
Chimay (who sell a Dubbel [Premiere/Red], a Tripel [White], and a Strong Dark [Grand Reserve/Blue])
Koningshoeven (or La Trappe, who sell nine different beers including the standard Blonde, Dubbel, Tripel, Quadrupel, and an oak-aged version of their Quadrupel)

However, it was widely known that another would be coming soon, presumably from Mont des Cats, and surprisingly, it was officially beaten to official designation by Austrian monastery Stift-Engelszell.  Mont des Cats, however, despite being allowed to call itself a "Biere Trappistes" (and the first from France, with the others all being in Belgium, except for Koningshoeven from the Netherlands and the newest from Austria) does not and will not for the foreseeable future carry the Authentic Trappist Product label - despite being brewed within the halls of a Trappist monastery by the monks themselves, since it is being brewed and bottled at Chimay's monastery as Mont des Cats lacks its own brewery.  Stift-Engelszell, however, does carry the official designation, thus officially being the eighth Trappist brewery (and the ninth may not even be Mont des Cats since "The Trappist monks of the Abbey of ‘Maria Toevlucht’ in Zundert have plans to start a brewery between the walls of their Abbey."

I had inadvertently recalled Mont des Cats as being the eighth in my prior blog post, but it is not officially the eighth - though it is the unofficial ninth in many ways!

For me, personally, the new acronym to recall this next time is WOW RACKS (or perhaps, WOW RACKS 'eM, I guess!)

Belgian beer styles - and not only those of Trappist production - developed a unique history through their geographical exemption from the Reinheitsgebot, often called the German (or Bavarian) Beer Purity Law which allowed them to experiment with different adjuncts (as well as through the specific qualities of their divergent yeast strains and their bottle-conditioned processes unlinked to the Purity Law).

Throughout European history, when water was potentially contaminated and untrustworthy, beer supported human survival (insofar as boiling killed parasites and beer wort had been boiled, but this wasn't known to be the reason at the time!)  Monasteries, as most other religious locations, had become the centre of local life and even those that didn't sell their product also brewed beer for their own consumption (and literal survival).  These beers, called paters (or, occasionally in contrast, 'singels') are still frequently brewed, but solely for the consumption of the monks and they are typically much weaker than their stronger, publicly sold counterparts.

Westmalle seemed to invent both of the styles we now, following their lead, call Dubbels and Tripels.  Though these terms often simply imply colour and alcoholic strength, as well as specific taste and aroma characteristics, they have at times reflected the gravity difference on the old scale - with the original gravity quite literally being double and triple that of the specific monastery's standard pater.

A dubbel is a strong brown ale that is bottle-conditioned (that is, primed with sugar to feed the living and unfiltered yeast within the bottle that continues to ferment and develop past the point of bottling), while a tripel is a strong(er typically) pale ale that is also bottle conditioned.  For flavour, aroma, colour, and other typical style guidelines, I link here to their descriptors from the Beer Judge Certification Program: Dubbel, Tripel.  Chimay premiere (otherwise called Chimay Red) is probably the most widely known dubbel, though I personally adore the Rochefort 8 (and long to try the much rarer Westvleteren 8).  Westmalle Tripel - the first tripel - is the standard against which all others are judged, though I personally found it less enjoyable when consumed side-by-side with the Achel Extra Blonde (even if the Westmalle defines the style and is still a clearly great beer!)

There is considerable debate as to whether a quadrupel exists as a distinct style, whether it is simply a poor differentiation from the "Belgian Strong Dark Ale" style, or whether it is simply an amped-up dubbel.  (This debate centers around the fact that the term was applied anachronistically to pre-existing beers rather than given to beers created to fit the criteria of a pre-existing style).  Regardless, and without siding in the debate herein, this characterization tells you what to expect from a quadrupel or Belgian Strong Dark Ale, again with the BJCP descriptor here.  Westvleteren 12 - often dubbed the best beer in the world - is perhaps the best known quadrupel, though the style is highly praised (when done well as it is difficult to sustain the alcohol without booziness and the resulting complexity of the style) and many of the highest rated beers on BA and RateBeer are quads/strong darks.

Yet, many praised versions of these - and other Belgian styles - are not made by Trappists (nor in Belgium) at all.  These are often called Abbey beers - a term literally without precise meaning as they could be made by non-Benedictine monks, outside of the Trappist Association's terms, or simply by a commercial brewery (occasionally masking their product as if to make it appear monastic).  St. Bernardus, Leffe, and Affligem are three famous Abbey brewers, though many others exist.

Personally, I care little for the Trappist (or Authentic Trappist) or Abbey designation and am much more concerned with the primary question of "is it a good beer?"  And, many Abbey beers certainly are, while many aren't, yet the Trappists are always of a high quality if still subject to the inevitable value of personal taste.

These - live, bottle-conditioned - beers tend to be very sweet with strong carbonation and often cater to both beer lovers and non-beer drinkers alike.  If you have the chance, I encourage you to taste them, and if you find any Stift-Engelszell or Wesvleteren, please let me know where I can procure some to advance my Trappist enjoyment!  (Note that expensive 6-packs of the famed Westvleteren 12 may be coming to Ontario soon - if briefly - though more on that when the news arrives and accordingly permits!)

Wrapping Up (and Guzzling Down) Mondial 2012

In concluding my detailed review of the 19th Annual Mondial de la Bière, I'd like to point out a few final things: a few links to some discoveries, some awards, a brief reminder of my most highly recommended discoveries, a few regrets and a nod to the best breweries.

First, I'd like to note the ingenuity, excellence, and personal friendliness of the merchandise and crew at BBbarfly who make and sell decal-coated, multi-coloured, unique butterfly-knife styled bottle openers that have been apparently engineered to not damage caps (though I have opened three and one was slightly bent, but may have been my fault!)  They are very fun, very cool, much more legal and useful than the real knives, have excellent designs and you can support an excellent Toronto small business run by some friendly folks.  The website even includes trick tutorials/slowed videos!

Second, I met a friendly gentleman named Phillippe, the Beer Hunter, who has rated 7600 beers.  Though he is tens of thousands away from the top in the world, he reminds me of my thoughts to remind you that I truly am a beginner here (and deserves the aforementioned link).  I was once criticized on another blog for something that author missed which I make abundantly clear in my first post and wish to reiterate here: that in the process of learning about beer I am writing my own thoughts and may as well share them.  If you disagree (or agree), please share your thoughts back with me in the comments!  We can hopefully all learn from and get tips and hints from each other!  It isn't a pissing contest, for me anyway, but rather a pleasurable service in the enjoyment of excellent craft beer!

Third, I discovered an excellent designated driver service, Point Zero8, and as I do not, cannot, and will not support drunk driving, I found it my duty to pass it on (and also to note that I was only three times over the legal limit upon departure my second day, according to their test, though I assuredly wasn't driving!)

Next, I'd like to note the Awards of the event listed at http://www.bieresetplaisirs.com/2012/06/07/mondial-2012-resultats-du-concours-mbiere-greg-noonan/ though I wish several of them were not sold out by halfway through the second of (an otherwise wonderful) five day event and that I'd dispute a few though many listed there I hadn't tried.

In review and on my best of the fest, I'd encourage any/all of you to try any of the following as they were all simply remarkable:
Achel Blond
Achel Brune
Westmalle Dubbel
Westmalle Tripel
Allagash Curieux
Dominus Vobiscum Hibernus (or really any Charlevoix beer!)
Malheur 12
Lagunitas IPA
La Vache Folle RyePA
Dogfish Head Burton Baton
Dieu du Ciel Chaman
St. Ambroise Vintage Age Millésimée
Beau's Winterbrewed
Wilco Tango Foxtrot
Beau's Strong Patrick Irish Red
Founder's Porter
Grado Plato Chocarrubica
Elysian Dragonstooth Stout
Malédiction
La Vache Folle Imperial Milk Stout
Bierland Imperial Stout
Arcadia Imperial Stout
Chatoe Rogue First Growth Dirtoir Black Lager
Rodenbach Grand Cru
Lips of Faith Cocoa Molé
Dominus Vobiscum Brut
Bacuri Forest

Finally, I'd just like to give an extra special nod to Microbrasserie Charlevoix, New Belgium Brewing, Achel, and Lagunitas Brewing for simply continuing to impress above and beyond the high standards of great craft beer!  Many other were great too, but each of these breweries offered me numerous new tastes of note and deserve the accolades (as many others do and will again at another time!)

Thanks too to the organizers.  I can't wait til next year!

Mondial Beer Review #1: Trappists, Abbeys, and the Belgian Inspiration

As a slight disclaimer before kicking into my series of five beer review posts from Mondial, I should say that I will slightly lump together some similar, but different beer styles to review a few together and note the best of the bunch first in their respective categories.  Sometimes these categories will be a bit catch-all and slightly unfair but will help organize things.


I'll also note that, when accompanied by some assistants on Saturday (thanks to Hec and Hec!), I tasted a few beers more than once and was reminded of the differences from day to day in what appeals.  These, as always are according to my palate on a given day and are of course personal, but also hopefully helpful!  Unfortunately, I only tasted 55 new beers at the event and cannot compare all of them, but of those, here begins a barrage of posts!


On the Belgian beer trail, I'll be including not only true Belgian beers, but beer styles associated with Belgium.  I have categorized these as 1) Dubbels; 2) Tripels; 3) Quads; 4) Saisons; and 5) Belgian Pale Ales.  Next, I will do a post on Pale Ales/IPAs/Old/Vintage/Scotch Ales/Barley Wines/Browns and Reds.  The next post will cover Stouts, Porters, and variations therein.  The fourth post will review my tasted Wheat beers and Lagers, and finally I will post on various sours and oddities.


Dubbels:


Having staggered upon a few desired dubbels that were sold out, I did manage to have two long-awaited Trappist offerings narrowing my list of untasted Trappist beers to just the Westvleteren ones and Achel's quad, but Westmalle and Achel's dubbels were worth their high ticket price at the event.


Personal Best of the Fest: Trappist Achel 8 Brune (8% ABV) is simply stellar.  Plummy aromas greet the nose alongside faint hints of figs and dark bread and an even fainter note of floral hops esters.  This presented a thick, creamy, yet smooth head of fine carbonation with excellent lacing and retention.  It is, indeed, best described as brown, though since (both of my) samples came from the top of a new bottle, no yeasty cloudiness was discernible.  Flavorwise, it is sweeter even than anticipated, not so much in the sugary way of many Trappist and Abbay beers, but in a very strong malty fruitiness dominated by figs, plums, and prunes, with a trace of raisins.  Despite being sweeter than many, it was so fruity (as opposed to artificial) that it was delicious and refreshing both times.  There was no sense of its booziness as it offered a smooth creaminess alongside a medium body and nicely drying finish.  This probably equals Trappist Rochefort's as my favourite dubbel.  Grade: A+


Also: Westmalle Trappist Dubbel (7% ABV) is similar in aroma, with dark fruits up front but there is also some cherries, perhaps even smelling like a candied variant - sort of like a cross between maraschino cherries and what cherries would be like if candied like a candy apple.  I wasn't crazy about this artificial sweetness scent (or flavour) but did mostly enjoy it nonetheless.  This beer pours a darker brown than the Achel, but with a whiter, if equally creamy, head that also expressed excellent lacing and retention.  Though still sweet, it is more dissimilar in flavor to the Achel than in aroma insofar as raisins, molasses and pumpernickel bread flavourings were more predominant.  Likewise, this is also medium bodied and nicely creamy with a perhaps slightly drier finish, yet I found it to taste boozier despite a lower ABV.  Overall, a very good beer (in a style I enjoy) but one that was simply bested by Achel according to my tastes.  Grade: A-


Tripels:


As someone who generally prefers dubbels and quads to tripels, I was surprised by the tripels that rocked my world at this event.  Despite tasting the famous Westmalle Tripel for the first time, and liking it, I found myself adoring two other tripels in ways I never knew I could love this style (though the recently tasted Tripel Karmeliet and Dominus Vobiscum Tripels also entice!).


Personal Best of the Fest: A two way tie between...


Trappist Achel 8 Blonde (8% ABV) smells excellent with notes of honey, pears, and rind most evident alongside sweaty yeast hints.  Quite cloudy (with only fine particulate), this fine Trappist ale pours a nice golden colour with a very nice (and nicely retained) white head of medium bubbles.  Flavourwise, it begins with sweet notes of pear, apples, and faint citrusy whisps, yet follow with a drying floral semblance of hoppiness with traces of cloves and spicy yeast.  It is quite carbonated with a medium body that well masks its high ABV.  This beer is not boozy in the least!  I am a convert to the ways of the Tripel!  Grade: A+


and it is tied with...


Allagash Curieux (11% ABV) offers a variant on this highly respected beer style insofar as it is aged in Jim Beam Bourbon barrels.  Aromas of sweet apples, bread, and rind meet the nose alongside an appearance that offers golden, lightly cloudy beer though with only a faint head (with a bit of spottyness on the surface) though the head may have been absent due to a bad pour.  Curieux is delicious: a sort of sweet and simultaneously sour apple is predominant alongside vanilla hints from the Bourbon barrels that are clearly present and enticing, yet not overwhelming.  Somehow, the two flavours balance perfectly with a sufficiently drying finish presented by a medium body with a tingly-crisp feel of fair carbonation.  Simply blissful!  Grade: A+


Yes, the legendary, original tripel, Westmalle Trappist Tripel (9.5% ABV) comes in behind these others to my tastes (on that given day, anyway!)  Aromawise, I was met with spicy notes exemplary of Belgian yeasts, alongside sweet pears and alcohol.  Also golden, but not as cloudy as the Achel, this could be due to topping the bottle, while it was poured with a good and comparably retained/impressive white head.  Though there is a complexity of spice and fruits in the flavour, I was a bit disappointed by an excessive booziness and obvious warmth alongside an equally excessive sweatiness to the yeast that - while not bad - were to me less pleasant than its peers offered.  Much drier and perhaps better balanced, though with a lighter body and carbonation than their peers that perhaps prevented the masking of the booze.  Perhaps it was overhyped for me, but though enjoyable and quite drinkable, I was more blown away by the nuance of the others and wonder if this simply commands its great respect (primarily) on legacy.  Grade: B+/A-


Quads:


Personal Best of the Fest: Microbrasserie Charlevoix Dominus Vobiscum Hibernus (10% ABV) wins out by a slight fraction over Malheur's below in my estimation.  It offers scents primarily of raisins and yeasty spices alongside faint remnants of caramel-like maltiness.  A bit lighter in colour than anticipated, it was still beautifully dark red with a near glow while the head was a perfect tan with remarkable retention, lacing, and yeasty surface-spotting. In the mouth, plum and berry notes are present, but so too are the raisins and spicyness evident on the nose.  A bit of dark bread makes its way in before the quite drying finish that comes off as very port-like.  It was a bit lighter bodied than anticipated, yet crisp in a moderate carbonation.  Very, very nice, even if a bit drier and lighter than desired.  Grade: A


Malheur 12 (12% ABV) finished just-a-shade below the Hibernus in my 50-point rating assessment (based on the BJCP).  The nose is dominated by sweet plums, caramel, and bready yeast.  It is dark brown with a fantastic creamy, tan head with superb retention and smooth lacing.  It is quite sweet in flavour as well with faint hints of chocolate alongside the ever-present dark fruits, but this sweetness is pleasant to me as it hides the ABV that could otherwise take over.  It brings a fairly full body with a medium carbonation, but perhaps not quite enough of a drying finish (if somewhat present) to balance for the sweetness, but it presents those notes so well, that this 'flaw' is, at most, negligible!  Grade: A


Ommegang Three Philosophers (9.8% ABV) is dominated on the nose by sour cherries that are quite enticing, as is brown colour and ample beige head of noteworthy retention, though with negligible lacing.  Flavourwise, I found it complex, yet overly sweaty and the cherry flavours became sweet but in an artificial sort of way.  Still nice, but not enlightening enough for me!  Though creamier and smoother than the other quads, I found it insufficiently drying and overly boozy despite a lower ABV.  Was it good?  Hell yes!  Was it worth the hype?  Not for me.  Grade: B+


Saisons:


I have sometimes loved a saison, and other times loathed them.  I do not consider myself well versed in the style though and one of these two was a taste of a peer's sample at the end of the night and I was unable to add too much nor smell too much, so I will say little, but I will note the following:


Personal Best of the Fest: Microbrasserie Charlevoix Dominus Vobiscum Saison Sainte Réserve (6% ABV) is fruity with pear and banana notes, alongside a slight spiciness and earthiness that can almost be called musty, but in a raw and appealing manner.  It is golden and slightly cloudy with slight head, yet fair spotting and retention though only slight lace.  The flavour is mild and mellow, yet faintly sweaty and earthy.  It is light-bodied and crisp on the tongue with a moderate carbonation evident.  It is nice, but a touch too dry bordering on astringency, yet I gather that this is style exemplary!  Grade: B+ (but on a scale I am just learning for this style that is yet to inspire a personal 'saison-spree')  (A shot follows with reviews continuing afterwards)

Again, I tasted a helper's beer called "Ichthus" according to the sign at the Le St. Bock booth - as it was on draft, I presume it was from Le Saint Bock.  It was called a "Saison Sushi" and was stated as 6.1% ABV, but the brewer was not listed, the beer is not in the program, and I cannot find it via internet search.  If anyone can help offer more information (or verify the brewer) or a link in the comments below it would be most appreciated.  All I can say for sure now is that it smelled and tasted a bit too murky, earthy, and/or funky for me at the end of the day and I would tentatively give it a Grade: B- 


Belgian Pale Ales:


I could call Ommegang's Rare VOS the best Belgian Pale I tasted, but I could also call it the worst as it was the only one I had at the event!  That said, it was good, if well overhyped for me personally!  It has citrusy and bready aromas, but they are dominated by the yeasty sweatiness.  It is lightly cloudy and spotty on the surface, while light amber in colour with a fine white head that boasts excellent lace and retention.  A hoppy pine quality not present on the nose comes through on the tongue, as does some yeasty spice.  It is bold and very, very dry nearly to the point of astringency, yet in an odd way: it is the combination of sweaty yeast and piney hops that dries as if merging the Belgian and American Pale Ale styles, but is closer to what could be called a Belgian/India Pale Ale possibly.  It has a medium body and a low carbonation that, if higher, could suit the dryness a bit better.  Grade: B-


That's it for now!  More to come soon as I'll continue with Stouts, Porters, Etc as soon as possible!