Blind Gueuze Tasting Offers Confirmations and Suprises

Recently, I had the opportunity to drink far too many beers with Noah from Beerism, Matt from Vox & Hops, and Craig from BAOS, and we kicked things off with a little 13 gueuze (well, 12 and one spontaneous unfruited American wild that was added for what we may call 'good measure') blind tasting. For the uninitiated, that means we numbered these products and wrote out (or typed) our assessments of the 13 products all poured before us (into, yes, 52 glasses used at once) without awareness of which was which until they were revealed after our ratings had been completed.

Blind tastings are wonderful for a few reasons: they confirm (or challenge) our palates and remind us of our strengths (and limitations); they beat down our preconceptions and challenge us to rethink them; and they typically involve drinking a lot of really exciting beer.

Drinking gueuze blind, however, is far less consistently reliable than blind tastings are for most other beer styles. Oude gueuze, a remarkably aging-tolerant blend of 1-year old, 2-year old, and 3-year old spontaneously fermented, unfruited lambic (from the Pajottenland region of Belgium), is a very durable beer style, but is also one with vast vintage differences, age development waves, and noticeable bottle and batch variation. This potential diversity was exacerbated by the varied ages of the bottles I pulled from the cellar. Nonetheless, I thought I'd get a nice idea of the standard lineup and I hoped to find that I had been fooled by name-recognition of the big 3 (not counting Bokke) of Cantillon, 3 Fonteinen, and Tilquin and discover that I somehow preferred cheaper, more easily procurable lambic.

Nonetheless, here is the kill shot, to be followed by my personal blind ranking, some notes on each, and some closing crucial observations.

In order of my personal ranking (based on BJCP scoring during the tasting) with just a few, ever-so-brief thoughts in parentheses:

1. Tilquin Oude Gueuze à l'Ancienne (2017) (brilliant, bright, funky, aromatic, perfect) 
2. Lindemans Oude Gueuze Cuvée René (2015) (very strong in each category, if not tops in any)
3. Oud Beersel Gueue Vandervelden 135 (2017) (slightly odd finish, but excellent funk and criminally underrated)
4. 3 Fonteinen Oude Gueuze Cuvee Armand & Gaston Assemblage 11 (2017/18) (I was shocked to note that the nose is a touch mild when directly compared to so many)
5. Boon Oude Geuze Black Label #3 (2016) (smooth, has a slight fruitiness in taste)
6. 3 Fonteinen Oude Gueuze (Assemblage #28 2017) (I noted that both of the 3f had a milder nose when alongside others for comparisons sake)
7.  Boon Oude Geuze à l'Ancienne (2017) (a bit muted/mild in mouth compared to others)
8.  Oud Beersel Oude Gueuze Vieille (2015) (overly malty in both nose and taste, but quite dry in the finish with minimal linger)
9. Boon Geuze Mariage Parfait (2015) (tastes a touch sweet/malty when compared directly aside the others)
10. Girardin Gueuze 1882 Black Label (2014) (a bit honey-ish and past its prime)
11. Allagash Coolship Resurgam (2018) (Not really in the same discussion as the classics)
12. Cantillon Gueuze 100% Lambic Bio (2018) (a bad rubbery mess of an off-bottle, sadly)
13. Saint Louis Gueuze Fond Tradition (2012) (A different tier AND WAY past its prime, with some medicinal off-flavours)

Some observations:

Tilquin is the best. I mean, I already knew this in many ways. I have had it many times, I have side by sided it many times with both Cantillon and 3f, as well as with others, and I always choose it, but not only did I also choose it blind (and ranked it by far the highest by BJCP standards), but so too did the other most experienced gueuze drinker in the tasting, and all four of us ranked it very high indeed. Though I always say I prefer it to 3f and Cantillon (but not to 3f Golden Blend), I didn't realize how strongly I preferred it. It truly stood head and shoulders above the others.

There are clear tiers here, in my opinion (and in these variable bottles/ages): as noted, Tilquin stands in a category apart, by far, but in the next (still excellent) tier, this specific Lindemans bottle held up alongside Vandervelden and A&G. The third tier (of still fantastic gueuze) brings Boon Black Label and the regular 3f, while the fourth tier boasts the Boon OG and Mariage Parfait as well as the Oud Beersel. Finally, I feel like the last two tiers were highly affected by bottle issues and/or age (or other issues - such as being a spontaneous American wild and not lambic at all). Specifically, #10 - the Girardin Black Label - wasn't bad but had faded past its true best before date (or was in a bad aging wave) and, though it wasn't off, it wasn't shining. The bottom tier of this tasting had too many medicinal off flavours and aromas and could have been/were bad bottles or stylistic differences: the Allagash just isn't what the Belgians bring, while the Saint Louis was well past its prime and the 'loon was a regretfully dreadful rubbery mess.

In a different vein, I am getting very tired of having bad Cantillon OG bottles. This is the second rubbery/medicinal bad bottle I have opened recently, and I have now opened bad 2012, 2015, and 2018 bottles. The other bad ones I have opened were aged in my own cellar, which hasn't affected other lambics adversely, but this recent one was from the November SAQ online sale. Has anyone else gotten bad bottles from this release?

When sniffing so many, subtler differences become more apparent. I noted a few that had more muted noses. Foremost amongst these were the two Drie Fonteinens. I always think of how funky they are when imbibed alone, but though these beers remained fanstastic and in the higher tiers of superb quality (even when blind, IMO), these subtler aromas were interesting to consider after the beers were revealed. It's also worth noting that it was this slightly muted aromatic quality that held them both back a touch from the others I rated similarly if a tad higher.

I knew the 3f, A&G, Vandervelden, Tilquin are bangin'. I also knew the Lindemans to be a fine beer but presumed it would fall a little bit lower and, while all drop off substantially behind the Tilquin, IMO, this beer gets into a worthy discussion and commands a higher respect than it is usually afforded, affected as we often are by price and wider availability (which in this case works out well in my favour!)

In terms of general observations, I am surprised at how unique each of these beers can be despite their commonalities. For the diversity of fermentations, barrels, agings, bugs, and blend, there is a greatly consistent commonality here, but the unique character of each truly stands out when your palate is tested along so many at once.

Next time, I may just do the higher tiers and couple them with a few others (HORAL's Mega Blend, 3f Golden Blend, and a few more one-off barrels, variants), but this exercise was a hit. Indeed, as I had hoped to discover, Lindemans fills the void for a lower priced, more widely accessible hit, and I think we all owe Lindemans the credit it's due.

But that Tilquin tho... damn.

Messorem Bracitorium: Haze Hype Right Off the Hop

   

Earlier this year, news of Messorem Bracitorium's pending opening excited me for multiple reasons: their location near my home, their style focus on the trends we geeks lose our minds for, and the breweries at which their brewers wet their chops (Auval, Pit Caribou, Les Trois Mousquetaires). Apparently I was not alone, as this is likely the most-hyped brewery opening in Quebec since Auval.

But with beer, I'm a realist and the reality is that most new breweries promise the moon, but fail to deliver. I mean, I'm not trying to be a snob, but I'm just not interested in drinking even decent beer any longer. There's enough great beer out there that I feel opening in this market necessitates coming hard or heading home. You NEED to make a name for yourself, hit the styles most consumed (I mean, beer geek or casual beer drinker, many thrive on the IPA), or expect to struggle whenever the herd is culled.

And, though I am told that Messorem wishes to emulate the strengths of the breweries they love - Grimm and Other Half, for their explicitly stated examples - I'd also like to brew like Shaun Hill and it really ain't that easy.

So despite my hope, I needed to see the evidence, especially since so many struggle to scale on new equipment, with canning lines, with the ropes of running the show, etc.

Yet, they "opened" with a bang. I mean, they aren't "officially" opened, having "soft openings" for over a month now, with limited hours, but they hit the ground running with solid beers most critiqued for being "a little green." There is an irony to even posting this now, since anyone in the know has already grabbed cans, swapped for some, or crushed some pints on site, but nonetheless here's my take on all five cans so far (with an extra shout-out to the unreviewed draught-only, but much enjoyed Couper l'Herbe Sous le Pieds and Touche. Tombe.).

In order of release...

 OK l'Enfer (Ekuanot, Simcoe Cryo DDH IPA @ 6% ABV, from Week 1) pours a cloudy yellow with a quickly receding and low-moderate head, but a trace remains atop with fair glass lacing. The nose is bright and fruity, offering mango, pineapple, and citrus. The taste is a touch sweet up front, though it finishes somewhat sharply. It has a bone dry linger, that is a touch astringent, but the slightly low-end effervescence complements the grainy, weighty, pureed smoothie mouthfeel that gives this an edge. At two weeks on (at the time of detailed assessment), this remains a bit green, but it may be the bold notes of "lupulin burn" cryo hops rather than a greenness at all. A fine beer, especially for a first offering!  Grade: B+

Brain Dead (Amarillo, Chinook, Cascade, Citra APA @ 5% ABV from Week 2). I gotta tell you: this beer is fire!  Some have noted oxidized cans of late online and some breweries do have issues with initial canning processes, but my allotment didn't last long enough to discover this outcome. (The lighting in the outdoor pic below may appear slightly oxidized, but see the pic at the bottom of the article to see the thick cloudy brightness of this beer at its best!)

This is one cloudy, thick looking mofo, presenting an almost milky-hazy yellow, the apparent viscosity of unfiltered non-alcoholic apple cider. It is likewise capped by a slight white head that dissipates quickly as it is pretty sharply carbonated. Here, the aroma wafts lemon rind, papaya, under ripe berries. Taste and feel combine in the mouth to be a bit sharp with a fairly bitter linger some may describe as

lupulin burn, but that I far prefer to a sweet linger even in other haze-cans I still imbibe on the regular. It is sharp, but the body has a richness on the tongue that gives some depth to this bold finish. It is much drier than HYPAs from Brasserie du Bas Canada and with a deeper complexity and balance than most IPA, let alone APA in the province. Still a touch green a week after sale, but safely worth the price of entry and a bold promise of things to come. I gotta say, I rarely buy APA in Quebec as so few compete with the best IPA, but this is likely the best APA in the Province IMO. My 4 cans and the, hmmm, 5 pints I have had on site have only strengthened this assessment. Grade: A (for style, as I might enjoy the OK l'Enfer as much but it has bolder competition) 

  Ces Magiciens (Amarillo Cryo, Cashmere, Citra DDH Sour IPA @ 7.2% ABV).

It's unclear to me - is a dry-hopped sour the same as a sour IPA (as long as they're kettle-soured)? I mean, I can't imagine the difference, but I often tend to enjoy but not love this style, with some exceptions. "WAIT," you say, "isn't that every style?" Well yes, but even trusted breweries struggle to hit this out of the park IMO, and this is no different.

Ces Magiciens follows the trend of an orange-hued haze monster, though the minimal head seems to linger a bit longer atop this one. Aromatically, it is dominated by wave after wave of lemon. The taste has a sour apple thing going on but is otherwise a bit non-descript for me, being of mild tartness with minimal character. I mean, the hops and sourness are well blended and balanced, but as neither is bold, they almost cancel each other into an easy drinking experience. And that's a good thing - but not what wows me about the best in the style that assault my senses with waves of candied fruit and a depth beyond what I got here.  It's fine, good even, just not earth-shattering. Grade: B
 


 
Get Wavy (Citra, Galaxy, Vic Secret DDH DIPA @ 8.5% ABV) arrives in the glass with a slightly more orange hue than those above, but remains hazy (if less cloudy than Brain Dead). Fair white head lasts longer with the least apparent carbonation of those above. For me, the nose is dominated by tangerine, oranges, a touch of lime zest, with varied citrus fruits all the way. There is a touch more sweetness here, though it is still balanced against the finish. That said, it is far drier than a BBC DIPA. Though this dropped a shade greener than the (as yet) uncanned "Touche. Tombe" (or single IPA, Couper l'Herbe Sous le Pied), it offers no real lupulin burn or astringency, finishing dryly, but lingering more with a juicy finish than a sharp one. (And "green" cans are fine with me - drink'em next week if you prefer!) The feel is not so much thicker than on the others, even for a stronger brew, but that isn't a slight as they have been nailing this aspect of their beers so far. Another solid offering. Grade: B+/A-








7 Pieds Sous Terre (Citra, Mosaic, Simcoe DDH IPA @ 7% ABV) excites before launch. I mean, those are three exciting hops! And, I am happy to say this doesn't disappoint, nor does it sell out on launch-day! (As I write this cans remain available for pickup after noon Tuesday even though they are closed for other service).

In the glass, 7 Pieds shows off a cloudy orange-tinged copper-yellow, atop which rests a characteristic slight white head that again dissipates quickly with no real lacing. Dankness on the nose is coupled with some lemon rind, pineapple, and papaya. I get similar fruits on the nose with some additional strawberries qualities, while the hops presents almost a tannic bite as it switches to a drier more bitter finish than most other top tier NEIPA in the province. I gotta say, this pairs really, really well with these trendy Beyond Meat burgers (and with a real burger as well, but oddly a tiny bit less so) - a match made in heaven. Alongside a medium-full, almost creamy smooth mouthfeel and fairly low carbonation that contributes to that round softness, this works well in the mouth and is well executed all around.  Their best IPA yet. Grade: A-/A





Messorem is currently open only Thursdays through Sundays at varying times (check their website for details), with an opening event still pending, but their beer, gear, location, site, and promise leave me excited for what's to come!

Bank Hotel: A Nearly Religious Experience

I don't even know where I am going to go with this post, except for a vague idea and, moreover, this post is only tangentially about Brasserie du Bas-Canada's marvelous IPA or the brewery itself (though I will review the former and nod to the latter).

This post, rather, is about an experience.

Early in my craft adventure, I read a few books (Tasting Beer by Randy Mosher and another I have forgotten). I remember, when discussing things to consider when assessing a beer, someone speaking not just of balance, style, etc, but also of the experience; that the best beer was the one with the best story, the one at a memorable time and place.

This is my best story, though again please note that as I've noted before about this blogs' purpose, these notes may be a better story personally than they are for others. And, I'm not sure I have the words to capture what this means to me intellectually. Nonetheless, here goes...

Remember that dress? The "what-color-is-that-dress" dress? Personally, I had seen that dress as purplish-blue and black and could not, for the life of me, understand how in the hell it could be seen otherwise... until I found a gif that slowly lightened and darkened the image. Suddenly, not only could I now see it as white and gold, but I could no longer see it as blue and black and couldn't even understand how I had seen it another way in the first place!

As a social theorist, I am deeply interested in discourse and the role of shared systems of signs that shape our perspectives on reality, on cosmology, on epistemology. Our discourses shape what we can perceive in the world, how we perceive it, and what takes on the appearance of truth, on what terms.

When I set out on my craft journey... shit, even when I started this blog... I was clueless, but while my perspective has evolved through the 5000-odd beers I have rated or reviewed, I know more, yet get stuck in discourses where I presume a perception to be (my own personal but nonetheless personally) factual experience. Yeah, yeah, palate fatigue or contamination exist, but barring those I almost always experience beers the same in every moment of consumption.

To put this another way, my discourse - my beer-geek discourse - shapes my experience, usually in ways I think of as better than the alternative.

So... what the fuck am I talking about, already?!?!?

I mean, if this is about Bank Hotel, my discourse MUST have come from the hype around this BBC brew and I must be saying I was tricked into liking it until I broke free?

Nope.

I thought I'd love it, and when visiting the brewpub a few weeks back (despite a pending trade bringing me a can that night), I filled a flight with several options including this exciting NEIPA.

I smelled it... and all I smelled was banana. I tasted it... and all I tasted was banana. I hate banana.

I didn't finish my pour. I drank the rest.

That night, alone in my hotel room - watching the Klaw, Spicy P, and Steady Freddy drop a surprise game one victory on the Warriors - I probably cracked more cans than I should have. And being a beer geek I wanted to mix it up and assess the can vs draught difference on this beer.

Once again, I smelled it... and all I smelled was banana.  I tasted it... and all I tasted was banana. I hate banana.

But I dug in. Remember, sometimes it takes more than a sample to get to a beer.

Someone sunk a three pointer (was it Green or VV? I forget now) and I sipped some more... and again a few minutes later...

And it clicked. Something changed.

I could no longer smell banana.

I could no longer taste banana.

There was a complexity that a smell (likely linked to memory) had blocked me from observing. As our smells can suggest, it made this beer into my colour-changing dress; I was blinded and unable to observe its nuance, but distracted from my presumptions, it changed. From that moment and for the remainder of the can (and the other can I have had since), its consumption was otherworldly, delightful, quasi-religious. I can't really put into words the uniqueness of this experience, but it was a night-and-day shift that my brain had entirely created going from dislike to love of a beer, and it is beyond my capacity to properly express - try though I may.

The nose offers an insane complexity for an IPA, for a two-hop (Sabro-Citra) IPA
at that. (Sabro has been called the new Citra, and Citra has been called "the cheating hop" as it's allegedly easy to get good flavour profiles with - but trust me, as a homebrewer, you still need to nail your recipe!) It wafts a depth of notes beyond what one could expect: I get tangerine, rind, grapefruit, pineapple, mango, melon, strawberries, flowers, and hint of mint, in varying moments as if the beer evolves before your nose.

In the mouth, it is similarly tropical, fruity, and floral with a touch more sharp bitterness than the HYPAs, yet somehow also offering greater balance alongside a substantial and supportive body. The carbonation is a touch sharper than I'd generally seek in the style, and yet its heft works with it.

Dammit this beer is good. It might be the best IPA in Quebec. Perhaps the best in the country. Perhaps as good as anything coming out of Trillium, or Bissell, or Treehouse, or Foam, or Hill... though I haven't had the opportunity to side-by-side and, moreover, beer is an experience... a moment...

And it's that moment I wish to return to. A moment so telling, not just of this beer but of the tricks our minds (perhaps triggered by aroma memories) play on us. A moment that flipped in a way I could no longer comprehend, nor have predicted.

I could no longer smell or taste bananas, as I could no longer see a blue-black dress.

In 5000-ish different beers, I have never had such a light-switch flip. It may sound hyperbolic or be hard to relate to, but for an atheist, this was like a religious moment for it was simultaneously both a switch from dislike to immense love (and regret that this experience would soon end), and also a switch from my perceived subjective (but objectively 'factual') assessment of the beer into a new horizon - a way beyond the limitations of my conscious mind, if you will.

Perhaps it was the distraction of the game that led me beyond the thoughts, memories, and perceptions that kept my appreciation at bay, but whatever it was...

I don't recall now whether it was Mosher or someone else who said that the best beer is the experience, the one you will always remember for its time, its place.

In 5000 unique beers, I'd never had this. On experience alone, this moment was the best beer I have ever had.

And while BBC often gets called great with a slight criticism of thinness or sweetness to their IPAs, this breaks that mold with a balance and depth I tip my hat to.

It isn't the best beer I have ever had objectively speaking (and whatever that means, Art, I'm looking at you), but it was my personal best experience for the intellectual challenge and perceptive delight it brought me, it was a new horizon, and it was oddly the closest to my conception of 'god' and the exposure of the effective pervasiveness and limitations of our own perceptions in a way I doubt I'll ever repeat (with beer), though I can repeat the beer and recapture that love nonetheless.

Cheers BBC, thanks for this moment, and WAY TO GO RAPS! (And Kawhi, if you stay, I'll send you a Bank Hotel come the next drop!)

Craft Beer Predictions for 2019

Like most predictive posts, this one has serious belief twinged with hyperbolic projection. Nonetheless, I thought I'd share some of my visions of the coming year in craft beer.

Prediction 1: People will start to realize that milkshakes and bruts are no substitute for the hazy successor to the American IPA.

It ain't really about the haze, it's about the juice, but NEIPA aren't going anywhere. Brut and Milkshakes though? I know very few people who even like these styles at all or much, and certainly nowhere near the numbers of those who <3 the West Coast and New England versions of the American IPA. Yeah, maybe I just want milkshakes to die, and maybe they won't entirely. Nonetheless, though, I maintain that in five years we'll look back on them as we currently reflect on the Black IPA - even though those were far superior to all but the best milkshakes.

Prediction 2:  Before the milkshake madness ends, someone will brew a milkshake zwickel/keller/kölsch or some equally ridiculous nonsense contaminating a clean and/or Reinheitsgebot style.

I mean, it may well be a DDH zwickel (or gruit?!?!) or some other wacky pursuit of the new, but it will be a failure nonetheless.

In fact, it's likely to come from some brewery who pumps out 700 new beers annually rather than perfecting a current one.

Yeah, this prediction is half facetious... but only half. I mean, how far from beer can we go? How far from style? (Don't get me wrong of course: it is in innovation and transformation that new styles are born and I truly applaud this when done thoughtfully.) As much as I abhor sounding like those non-craft drinkers who lament craft beer for allegedly 'not tasting like beer' (when they have no historical understanding of the styles that predate their beloved corn-syrup-fueled race-to-the-bottom macro lager), but how far from beer will we go? Can we simply make good beer, not weird limited beer and try to focus on that?

Speaking of which...

Prediction 3: Brasserie Auval will release yet another great beer, alongside several decent but immensely overvalued ones.

While brewmaster Ben Couillard is an excellent brewer and while all of his products are at least solid (though I am not sure I understand Braggot or even Double Nordet), there is no perfect brewer. Yes, even Shaun Hill and Jean Van Roy have released products below their legendary bests.

Auval has some tremendous beers (*cough* Trifolium, Nordet, Grisettes *cough*) and the rest are generally good to very good (saisons, fruited sours, Super A), while a few are simply fine. They certainly beat many a shelf beer, even at their worst, yet that gets to the crux of the matter: the fact that they aren't found on shelves in Quebec's largest market converges nicely with a trend in craft beer that I hate - the ongoing pursuit of the rarest/newest beer over the best.

Don't get me wrong, I also seek new untappd beers and badges (and once foolishly traded Fou'Foune for a pastry stout), and appreciate the chance to buy a rare product, but a product shouldn't be seen as great or more valuable BECAUSE it's harder to get, but rather because it is superior (which then legitimately boosts value in conjunction with scarcity). I'm not saying Auval's product is all hype - much isn't - but the after-market value on these beers needs to simmer down.

The result here is decent beers (in abundance in some parts of the province) being traded for epic rarities of greater value (in cost, scarcity, and quality terms) because of uneven distribution compounded by beer geek overhype. If you think I'm wrong, Trifolium hit Montreal at 1 per person and sold out before launch due to massive lines, while a guy I entered in trade discussions with claims to have brought 48 bottles from the Gaspé and wanted BA Hill Farmstead for each one... AND THAT IS ONE OF THE GREAT AUVAL BEERS.

Hence, the other crucial part of my prediction: Auval will launch a great beer, but trading for it and 4 others at that price to determine which is the one perhaps worth the cost of entry is evidence of flawed perceptions - with no disrespect to a phenomenal brewer.

Prediction 4: Everyone will (pretend to be) shocked when ____________ sells to a macro.

I have no inside scoop, beyond any oft-repeated rumours, but you can fill in the blank and rest assured that as craft continues to boom, the macros will continue to pursue shelf, tap, and brand dominance with dollar figures that may be a pittance to them but offer lifetime security for the owners of small operations and their families.

Don't blame the seller though, blame the system. By that, I mean capitalism.

Prediction 5: My cellar will continue to grow despite my best intentions to shrink it - and I will not be alone.

Somehow I've got like 400 bottles/cans in my cellar. This was never the intention, and I've even now had beers go bad. Further, despite periodic attempts to keep the inventory up to date and to avoid spoilage, the reality of working/parent life keeps things from getting dwindled.

The chaos began when I'd have a chance to buy something like 48 PMB and I'd buy 48 (or more realistically 24). Then I'd drink and trade 12 and accumulations would ensue.

During the past 2 years or so, I have reduced my RIS purchases, for example, from 4+ bottles to 2 of high quality product (one to drink and one to age) or sometimes just one, but it bodes well for craft beer that there are simply more quality offerings to select.

When I moved to Quebec in 2012, there really was one imperial stout worth buying and so I'd hoard that BA delight. But now, there are many and I have switched from buying too many of one beer to buying one of far too many beers.

I don't know if this is a condition and therapeutic confession, but it is a warning: don't let good beer rot.


Anyway, I wish you all a happy new year, a frothy new beer, and nothing but the best in 2019. Cheers!

Une Biere Deux Coups Brings Their A-Game with a Shining Apricot Sour

Since originally reviewing some beers from Montreal homebrewers Une Bière, Deux Coups way back in 2015, I have gotten to know the mastermind behind the project and co-brewmaster, Dan Deeds, fairly well.

He has also gotten to know me better and knowing me as sucker for a tart apricot (or passion fruit) beer means he was likely unsurprised to find me anxiously salivating over his latest bottling: an apricot-aged, turbid-mashed wild ale reminiscent of a fruited lambic. Yet, despite my excitement to try this latest concoction, there is a risk here as I am also far more critical and difficult to please when in my comfort zones than I am with, say, a zwickel or a dortmunder.

Having taken up homebrewing, and having given this style a shot on my own - with no great success, I might add - makes me all the more respectful of a successful turbid-mash and year long mixed fermentation (before some time spent on apricots). It should be noted that this beer was wholly fermented (and infected) with the stepped-up dregs from a Tilquin bottle, and there is some apparent inheritance therein.

So the beer itself comes in at about 5.5% ABV, and was aged on both red and yellow apricots, as well as some dried apricots as well.


This treat pours a bright copper colour, with a slightly audible white head that dissipates almost entirely quite quickly, but a ring remains that leaves fast receding lacing of fine bubbles down the glass upon each sip.

The nose is dominated by apricot with a fermented apple skin/grape skin thing going on, supplemented by milder notes of lemon zest and slight funk. It smells like authentic lambic in almost every way, but lacks a bit of that mineral dustiness that defines the real Belgian style, though it isn't without a bit of hay-like funk on its own.

However, many American Wilds lack the true mineral and dusty qualities of the spontaneous Belgian originals, but seemingly attempt to make up for it with an overwhelmingly low ph that hides the lacking complexity with sour preeminence above all else. This doesn't do that.

In truly delightful fashion, this presents a nicely complex taste with a decently tart, but not overwhelmingly sour, bite supported by apricots through the middle and finish. It starts and ends quite tart, but with a little fruity sweetness in the middle - not much, but enough to give depth to the beer. There is a fair bit of earthyness similar to that found in the Tilquin dreg source through the middle and end as well.

This beer boasts an excellent bold sharp effervescence (carbonated to nearly 3.1 volumes), with a medium light body. Nonetheless, the small-bubbled sharp carbonation and tartness spreads feeling across mouth in a way that makes this enjoyable for those of us who enjoy a thicker bodied beer anyway - though this body is certainly to style.

It has a very slight oiliness on the palate, but this is a very minor flaw for an otherwise excellent product.

I'd drop good coin for this on a special release. Bravo, 1B2C, bravo!

And, to that end, I've got both good and bad news...

First the bad: though you can contact 1B2C at their facebook page to explore their offerings, this beer is presumably long gone.

Yet, the good news is that their commercial brewery (pending new name) is getting closer to actualization, such that it will become easier to procure their beers in eventually oaked glory! The business plan is complete, some funding is in place, and more investors will be sought early in 2019 as things hopefully begin to coalesce towards a bricks-and-mortar brewery and tasting room.

Dan plans to host a modest (30-ish) barrel program focused on mixed fermentation saisons, sours, and big beers (alongside staple crowler fills of draught fresher styles) and the success of this enjoyable treat has me salivating for the future.

Cheers!

Les Trois Mousquetaires drops Déjeuner Impérial 2.0 and it's still Bangin'!

Sometime around designated imperial stout season I always seem to emerge from blog-hibernation when an epic imperial stout hits my palate.

And, just today, Les Trois Mousquetaires dropped the second version of their stellar Déjeuner Impérial, a bourbon-barrel aged imperial stout with coffee and maple staves.  Version one came in 375ml bottles and was brewery only, at 1 bottle per person (if memory serves) and launched at last year's Double IPA Day.

This time, however, it comes in a 750 (because nothing says winter like an 11.5% 750) and drops at 2pp at the brewery with store drops pending.

This delightful brew pours a black base with a medium tan head. The head is audible and dissipates quickly portending a sharper carbonation than I usually appreciate in the style.

Aromatically, I am enticed by maple coffee, with traces of wet wood and bourbon vanilla underneath.

In the mouth, all of the different aspects get their moment to shine. It starts with a sweet maple forward introduction before transitioning, first, to a warming bourbon heat and finishing with a drier coffee bitterness (when the warmth transitions from tongue to chest). Though sweet overall, this beer brings a balance of flavours that provide a complementarity rarely rivaled.

As expected, it is a bit more boldly carbonated than I usually appreciate, yet something about that works extremely well here. Though the sharp carbonation lifts the weight some giving a more apparent thinness, it also seems to work with the bourbon heat making for a lively mouthfeel that seems to help round out the noted flavour balance.

Wait, the 11.5% must have gotten to me, what am I saying?! I mean... uh... you won't like this. Send me your allocation for proper disposal. I promise it will be adequately handled.


Grade: A

Montreal's Festival Season Kicks Off With Beer, Beer Festival Season Kicks Off With Mondial!

Late Spring in Montreal launches the city's crazy festival season, while summer itself promises many epic beer fests!

This Wednesday things kick into high gear at Palais des Congrès, where the 25th Mondial de la Bière launches for 4 days of raucous revelry.  This year's festivities promise 650 different products (beer, cider, spirits, and mead) including 334 products new to Mondial, and many appearing for the first time in Montreal. Fourteen different countries are represented, and the organizers expect 140,000 visitiors over the 4-day event!

Yeah, it gets crazy, loud, booze-fueled... and fun.

The event runs from noon through 11pm from Wednesday through Saturday and, while entry is free, samples can add up so going with a plan is best for both budget and palate. And, if you don't wish to buy a glass, don't forget to bring one and freely use the glass-rinsing stations to clean things up in between tastes.

As always, I am most equipped to comment on sours, saisons, wilds, IPAs, stouts, and barleywine as I rarely drink anything else (aside from the occasional dry-hopped or barrel-aged zwickel).

Thus, for those wondering what to get, I offer my plan to conquer Mondial!

IPA/DIPA/TIPA/ETC

As the most widely selling style of craft beer, it is crucial to consider the IPAs on offer at Mondial, yet here there is good news and bad. The state of antiquated import laws unfortunately means even solid non-Canadian IPA breweries like Three Floyds must submit their beers months ahead of time to the SAQ system where they age them out for us, and this style only suffers from aging.

Thus for IPA fiends, I'd stick to the local, with decent to solid offerings from Shelton, le Cheval Blanc, Vox Populi, Les Trois Mousquataires, and Dieu du Ciel. However, most of their offerings are available locally regularly, and doesn't one go to Mondial to taste from afar?

Thus, my suggestion is to branch away from you hophead tendencies and to seek out some other styles! But, if you insist on the imported IPA, my untested, but optimistic best bet prediction is to hit the Norwegian brewery Haandbryggeriet for their (collaboration with Stone/Brewdog) Triple IPA (at 10% ABV) called Inferno as the backbone may support the hops for longer in the lengthy (and lengthily dated) import process.

But, seriously, expand your palate...

Sours, Saisons, Grisettes

Yeah, yeah... sour isn't a style, saisons aren't all sour, but I'm lumping them together because there are too few of each to latch onto here!

And, well, despite a few interesting looking offerings like Benelux Grisette a l'hibiscus, LTM's new Sour Citra, and DDC's Exorciste aux Mures, I'll just state the obvious: get your Crooked Stave and Jester King pours (but leave me some) and run along!

As a wildcard, I'll add in OverHop.  While people raved about them last year, I find them inconsistent and more OverHyped, but I have seen batch variation as they dial in their contract process, and they bring several sours that could be worth a try... maybe.

Big Stouts and #BIL

Canada's Nickelbrook brings two barrel aged variants of their Bolshevik Bastard: Winey Bastard (wine BA) and Kentucky Bastard (bourbon) that are always a pleasure, while Brewfist offers an interesting sounding stout collaboration with Prairie called Spaghetti Western aged in grappa barrels (!?) with a certifiably sessionable 8.7% ABV (for a session RIS).

Dieu du Ciel brings Peché Mortel variants Latte, Framboise,  and Termopilas (Mmmmmm).

Lack of Barleywine may be death, but at least your lifeline can be jacked with the 14% Xyauyu from Italian brewery Baladin, but I'd like to see a few more big bad BW rocking the taps.

Final Thoughts

In the end, when things start to dwindle, remember the local, remember something new, remember palate fatigue and exhaustion, and remember to drink responsibly!

But if responsibly out of options, Nøgne Ø always hits pretty hard, while DDC also brings a special 25th Mondial surprise beer that is, presumably, not to be missed.

See you there, geeks!

New Benelux BA Bottle Blends! Lapsus and Grande Armada Réserve

Though I know of no Montreal beer geeks who avoid offering their respect and admiration of Benelux Brasserie Artisanale, they are often neglected in broader discussions due perhaps to their infrequent bottlings. However, with their Brasserie du Canal providing greater bottling capacity, we have seen increased assemblages of barrel-aged products (Chroniques de Mars, Mai, Janvier, for instance) hitting the stores in the past few years and a new vintage release has just arrived with another right around the corner.

And, as evidence of Benelux's brewing cred, when these infrequent bottles do appear, they disappear from shelves almost as quickly as they arrive.

The classic Grande Armada Réserve (2017) just hit shelves in the past couple of weeks, while Lapsus (2017) is slated to do so this coming week.

This year, both beers have changed format going from 650ml bombers to 500ml high density bottles. Sometimes such format changes result in similar pricing, yet to Benelux's credit, the price did indeed drop, while the lowered volume is a welcome change in my opinion. I mean, for starters, if you need greater volume for a larger share you can buy two, while this size allows for easier solo drinking. Yet, an even bigger advantage here is that the smaller format makes for more bottle production letting a wider audience enjoy the same output (or allows you extra aging bottles if you're a hoarder like I am!)

Before cracking these bottles, though, I want to express my excitement at this post for multiple reasons: first, I haven't written in a while and I'm happy to be so doing again; second, these beers are exciting; but third, and most prominently, this post marks the first ever true collaboration between maltytasker and my dear friend, Noah, of Beerism. Though we weren't able to get together for all of these tastings, Noah was able to provide some stellar photography allowing us to collaborate after many years of considering doing so before this project-post finally came to fruition.

Now, seeing as I tend to buy and store far too many beers, I figured I'd use this preview opportunity to compare (and dig into the cellar). For the Lapsus, I have chosen to look at last year's release in comparison to this year's. And for that too, I'm stoked.

The Lapsus Showdown: 2016 vs. 2017

I can't unfortunately (and obviously), side by side these at the same age, so it is tough to tell if observed differences are more of batch variation or age effects, but differences are clearly noticeable here despite vast commonalities. While last year's Lapsus promised a blend of Oud Bruin aged three years in Californian Pinot Noir barrels with a Dubbel aged one year with brettanomyces and raspberries and checks in at 7.5% ABV, this year's professes a blend of Californian Pinot-aged Oud Bruins of varied vintages (mostly 1+ year with a bit of 4-year (!!!) ) alongside other sour beers aged on raspberries and Saskatoon berries, and comes in at 6.4%. Despite these differences, though, there is a remarkable consistency to these beers that is evidence of marvelous blending skill. 

Both appear quite similarly pouring a vibrant mahogany with minimal slightly off-white head of some retention (and no real lacing to speak of).

In the new incarnation the raspberries pop more, offering fresher, sharper, brighter aromatics, while the year-old vintage is both a bit more faded with a stronger balsamic backbone. When we let it breathe and warm, while further digging beneath the surface notes, both bring background oak notes and vinous qualities. The vinousness and oak character seem a touch more present on the older bottle, but the fresh notes up front make the newer bottle the clear winner in the nasal challenge.

In the mouth, there is a slight malty sweetness and hint of Saskatoon berry to the newer batch before a light vanilla and balsamic barrel quality in the swallow and finish. Oddly, the raspberries are far less present here than in the bouquet.

The flavour to the older vintage starts sweetly as well, if a touch more pronounced, but ends with a red wine-like complement to the moderate balsamic and vanilla-ish oaky notes. There is a greater dryness to this aged bottle with a slight bit of bolder brett funk discernible.

While neither has great acidity, both have some mild tartness, yet the newer bottle seems a bit thinner. Both have a decent silky feeling with minimal carbonation, but the body and flavour seem to be wins for the aged bottle.

Both have great similarities and this assessment really doesn't make clear how alike they are, yet the differences must (at least somewhat) be due to process as the (apparently and logically) increased Brett character of the older beer should have resulted in a thinner body (though the greater ABV portends a greater backbone supporting greater heft). However, the thinner (not thin, just thinner) body of the newer makes for easier drinking with less balsamic character that can be slightly off-putting to my palate.

Photo (obviously) not by Beerism!

There seems to be a tradeoff here: fresh nose or increased funk that complements the vinousness and oak, with a drier finish. To age or drink fresh? Why not buy two and do both? Or...

The only logical conclusion here is to blend them! In so doing, however, the nose of the more dominant fresher batch spruces up the older one but pales from its original form, while the taste doesn't seem to meet the strengths of the aged bottle either. Don't get me wrong, all "three" are great beers, but I think most would prefer either the fresh bouquet of the latest version or the increased drying funk of an aged bottle, while the blend seems to mute the strengths rather than bring them all to the front.

However you prefer your Lapsus, stay tuned for the new drop to hit shelves this week!

Grande Armada Réserve 2017

Presumably many a beer geek has tasted this delight before. And hw does the new vintage stand up?

Well, the 2017 labelled blend pours a deep dark brown, with a tan head of large soapy bubbles and some streaky lacing.

The aroma on this beer stands up to its reputation from other years, perhaps even with greater barrel presence: yes, this is a barrel-forward beer. Some may lament this for detracting from the mostly indiscernible base brew, but this is, for me, a selling feature!

Aromatically, I am hit with big bourbon notes of toasted oak, vanilla, a bit of maple, and some slight hints of ethanol. There is a mild nuttiness underneath, but this is barrel and bourbon to the nth degree, and that's exactly what I want it to be!

There's a brown sugar and mild dark fruit quality in the mouth up front, before finishing with an initial vanilla quality and a (bourbon-derived) alcoholic dryness to the finish.

This has an excellent, smooth, creamy feel with fairly low carbonation and a medium (or a bit heftier than medium) body, alongside a feeling, but minimal taste, of heat. Though I'd often like a bigger body to support this, the carbonation and creaminess here support it amply. It is only very mildly sticky (for such a sweet base). I'd really love to see this hit a nitro tap someday... in fact, I may have to shoot one through my nitro-charged cream whipper!

Maybe my memory fails, but I find this to be a VERY strong vintage of this always strong barrel-forward blend.

Ya'know... I'm pretty partial to Benelux as their Verdun location is my local pub, but they really are stepping things up with increased barrel blends to take home from your local bottle shop. Though they now offer growlers as well, it's these bottled barrel-blends that need not be best consumed in 7 days that really highlight beer geek life. So, get your asses to your local dealer and snag these while you can!


One final shoutout to Beerism for the stellar photography! Cheers!

Godspeed! You Mad Brewmaster!

I just happened to be in Toronto when the first can-release preceded the anxiously awaited opening of Godspeed brewpub in Toronto's East End (slated to officially open as a brewpub sometime this week!) When the brewmaster and genius behind the project is Luc "Bim" LaFontaine (originally of Dieu du Ciel fame followed by Japanese brewing experience), the hype is real and the lineup of 100+ people when I arrived about 20 minutes into a 12-hour first-launch can-release foretold the thirst of the city's residents.

With the release announcement neglecting to mention the beers on offer, speculation ran amok, while early Untappd check-ins of cans of Stout and Dortmunder gave away two initial offerings, while the third (discovered only on site) was an IPA.

Though I expected a lineup, I wasn't sure a 4.7% ABV Stout and a Dortmunder would draw the crowds, but while I wasn't alone in this assessment (as many in line described the styles as "boring"), Bim's reputation brought the Canada Day crowds nonetheless. That said, I too came for his past resume, even if relatively uninspired by the styles but optimistic due to brewmaster pedigree. Though I expect them to be on-point, this may have been the only beer geek lineup for Dortmunder in history and may well be the last! But, such is Bim's legend! Yet, we nonetheless anxiously await Godspeed's step into the trendier styles of sour beers, wild ales, barrel-aged delights, NEIPAs, saisons, and more.

Cans were offered at about the moderately high end of the going rate at $3.75 (tax included) per 355 ml.

Even with construction remaining, the visit prompted excitement for open with a gorgeous interior layout (if a touch less seating than space may demand) and the promise of stellar on-site Japanese food created by a team specially selected and brought over by Bim to join in the project. He promises us that "The food will be amazing! You cannot go wrong when you put so much passion and love in what you do."

I can hardly wait, for either food or beer, so let's turn to them!

India Pale Ale (6.0% ABV from the "Pitch & Pray Series") wafts a fairly mild nose with a honey-ish malt base coupled with a blend between earthy hops and mild citrus and cantaloupe. It smells as it looks, fairly malt forward, slightly English and less American.The taste is similar with an earthyness coupled with a grainy slight nuttiness up front before a moderately bitter finish, but one once again more reminiscent of a blend between an English and a West Coast style than of the East Coast claimed in the brewery description.  The body has a decent heft alongside low-side carbonation (for the style), with a pleasant oilyness to its mouthfeel. This is a type of IPA somewhat neglected in these parts, and it may impress for some, but for the trendy beer geek posse, it will likely underwhelm. Though the description above proclaims it an Eastern IPA, it is much more English in tradition, with but mild hints of the New World character. It is fine, and I respect it for what it is, but I look forward to more thoroughly American takes on the style when Godspeed gets around to them.

Dortmunder (4.8% ABV from the "Pitch & Pray Series") presents a gorgeous copper colour with a soapy white head, of minimal retention. Aromas are of sweet, malt-dominant pilsner grains, with a faint grassy noble hops character. The taste is quite sweet up front, but quite clean with a fairly dry finish and a substantial, mildly bitter linger. This beer is very well balanced, and likewise offers a moderate body with moderately low carbonation and mouthfeel. It may not be my preferred style, but it is highly quenching, and almost entirely on point to style parameters. One could argue that releasing such a stylistically sound beer as an initial offering is the safe route, though another perspective holds it as a bold one to offer it in such a lager-loathing craft beer market. Yet, despite the reservations of the geeks, brew-pubs need the locals alongside the dedicated beer-traveller, and styles such as this are the virtual basis for local orders at my local craft brew pub (in an area not unlike Godspeed's). Though I may not buy many such beers, I am happy to note the stylistic expertise I'd expect from a brewer of Bim's pedigree.








Stout (4.7% ABV from the "Pitch & Pray Series") may be the hidden gem of the bunch. Pouring out a deep dark brown to opaque black with a thick, foamy beige head of stellar retention and thick lacing, this beer presents a bold roasty coffee dominant and very mildly ashy bouquet. Though there is some cacao underneath, it is coffee that is highlighted by these malts. There's a mild biscuity quality up front in the mouth before a quite sharp, dry, and lingering coffee roast dominant finish. In the end, there is a trace of earthy hops alongside the intense roast that almost expresses in the linger as a slight ashyness, but not beyond acceptable levels. This seems to fall somewhere between what would be defined as Dry Irish Stout and American Stout by style, and it holds a medium body with the low carbonation I appreciate in the style lending a heftier feel on the tongue than the 4.7% ABV likely supports in reality (but aren't mouthfeels all about perceptions anyway?). This is a solid, solid base stout and I regret not having purchased more!






I love the name of the "Pitch & Pray Series", since as the adage goes, brewer's only make wort and yeast make beer, such that even Mad Geniuses like Bim, still must "Pitch & Pray." Bim tells me this is the series name for the early release beers, only some of which will be brewed later after others arrive. Thus, different lines will become evident once the product starts flowing regularly. In the meantime, however, this launch plays it fairly safe but demonstrates base mastery (as if there was any doubt) with nailed styles and reliable staples.

Now, time for the madness!  Bring it, Bim!  We're ready!

Reviewing the World of Beer: Mondial 2017 in a Province of Booming Craft

For the sixth straight year, I put in a full day at Mondial de la Biere, arriving at noon and departing around 10 pm.  Yes, I had a long time to drink, but I tried to pace myself, to drink water, and to get to some fairly reliable assessments.

My first assessment concerns the lack of GlobeTrotter food (and the insects they usually bring).  I even mentioned them in the preview as they are always present it had seemed - even another year when they weren't mentioned in the program.  But alas, I had to eat "normal" food with my beers and I, sadly, cannot tell you which would pair best with crickets.

I arrived early to try Three Floyds' infamous Dark Lord 2016 (having previously had a 2014 and wanting to see if it was any better), but alas it smelled identically of soy sauce and tasted of sweetened, high quality, soy sauce once again.  I'd love to try the BA versions, but I just cannot get behind this beer.  While there, and with limited offerings, I also hit all of the Three Floyds IPAs and DIPAs, but they were all too oxidized from the lengthy importation process for optimal assessment (as expected).

However, another extremely limited bottle on my must-try-list was available at open and this one did not disappoint: Central City's Sour No. II (Sour Kriek) was boldly assertive with a bright oaky nose not unlike the Flanders style sours, and drank delightfully with a decent body and complex interactions between the balsamic qualities alongside the oak, the funk, and the fruit.  This was a standout beer, for sure and I would gladly seek it, or any other sours in that line, out again.

On the international front, I found a few more deserved of mention.  Of limited Lost Abbey products available, there was oddly the widest availability for what I felt was the best beer: Carnevale, a funky American saison of stellar depth and quality, of which I returned for a second pour.  Also, the Brazilian beers served onsite by OverHop were noteworthy (in particular, I enjoyed their HopGoddess IPA the most, with honourable mentions to OverLab Nelson Sauvin and Hazy).

On return to the Quebec front, like others, I was disappointed by the absence of some of Quebec's strongest breweries (*cough* Dunham *cough*, not to mention Benelux, Hopfenstark, Pit Caribou) and smaller strong newcomers like Maltstrom and Auval, but there were some solid local delights.

Though I was surprised by the strengths of Les Trois Brasseurs' Milkshake IPA, I was excited to try the newly praised Shelton NEIPA brewed at Oshlag.  Though the Shelton wafted a great nose, I found it a bit thin and not quite of the complexity early reviews had me hoping for, if nonetheless solid.

Yet, in closing, I was wowed by the evolution of the beers at Brasserie Harricana.  New(ish) brewmaster Francis Richer has been killing it!  Though their Saison des Allergies is still fantastic and not of his original making, several strong new offerings (17 Brune Celeste, 14 Double Gose, and 720 Strong Ale) were all noteworthy, unique, and delightful.  Yet, the highlight there, and perhaps of the festival for me was the creamy, smooth, nitro-served bourbon-barrel aged B52 imperial porter with coffee, vanilla, and lactose. Man, is that beer a remarkable treat.  Sweet, but complex, coffee-forward, yet not one-dimensional.  I'll line up for bottles of this!

With another year down, I am reminded again of the need to revise the SAQ system, at least for American IPAs.  I mean, they are all tested and approved within the USA - they are not going to kill us!  We buy them anyway on every vacation down South!

I am also reminded of the many varied and growing strengths of our local beer scene.  With each passing year of Mondial, it seems Quebec stands up taller against the trends and imports on offer and this year managed to do so with a diminished number of the high end of Quebec craft breweries.  This only bodes well for our local consumption down the road - now for Mondial to entice the newer brewers and the old ones back!

Until next year, cheers!

Another Year of Mondial de la Biere! (Another Year It Must Cope With Paternalistic Prohibition-Inspired Legal Limitations!)

As another year has passed, we once again find ourselves on the verge of the forthcoming Mondial de la Bière which runs from this Wednesday, June 14 through Sunday June 18 at Montreal's Palais des Congrès.

In year's past, I have given advice on arriving early if you wish to try rarities or to avoid the weekend party atmosphere (or late if you seek the party atmosphere!), on which specific beers to seek out, and on strategies for finding your specific beers of interest.

This year, I will be briefer, but will - in a somewhat different vein - push a bit of a political agenda (or two).

For example, one of the most sought-after beers on the list: Three Floyds nearly-IPA level APA "Zombie Dust" is on offer, but once again promises to be far too old for optimal enjoyment.  Oh, us geeks will still buy samples, "tap it," and lament the stale aged hops, but why don't we instead (or in addition) contact our local MNA and demand a change to regulations, or engage in a discussion over these sub-optimal beers as to how best to lobby for progressively amending outdated alcohol laws?  It isn't Mondial's fault that these beers must spend many months being 'tested' by the SAQ (despite the fact that no known pathogens can exist in a fermented beer below 4.5% ph or above 2% ABV), and I applaud Mondial for bringing in these diverse offerings  These regressive laws don't only baby us, they cost taxpayers needlessly and ensure that we are shielded from many great products in the global market.

Sure, some beer styles withstand this trip (and for those, I encourage you to check out Belgium's Brasserie de Bastogne, Brasserie de la Senne, Brussels Beer Project, Vliegende Paard Brouwers, Brazil's Cervejaria Colorado, America's The Lost Abbey, Three Floyds, and Weyerbacher, Norway's Haandbryggeriet and Nøgne Ø), but many are either not at their best or hindered by this delay.  (Typically IPA, APA, and other well-hopped styles are most adversely affected, while Scotch Ales, Imperial Stouts, Barleywines, sour beers, and saisons - mostly saved by higher ABVs - are better respresented after the wait).  Alternatively, stick to the many excellent local brewers (at least for the IPA/APA style).

I, alone, will not boycott the international booth, but perhaps this is a strategy discussion the beer community may want to have for future years, or at least to plan for as it may bring Mondial around to join us in pushing for change.  Their lobbying weight cannot be underestimated and it is surely in their interests to provide the best and freshest beer as well as the diversity for which we applaud them.

In an unrelated, but likewise politically motivated suggestion, consider that as starvation both threatens the stability of many and as climate change alongside a growing population means diminished access to food in the future, many have argued that insects should provide a more sustainable and healthy alternative to other protein sources.  Thus, my penultimate Mondial tip is to seek out Globe Trotter and to begin adjusting your palates to this delicious and nutritious food oddity.

Finally, remember the most important things: step outside of your comfort zone, try new beers and styles that you may never get to otherwise, but don't bud in line, don't be a jerk, and do not, under any circumstances drive drunk.  Having fun in such a way ensures that we all can.  Cheers and see you at Mondial!

Brasserie Dunham: Previewing their Latest Innovative Concoctions

Every once in a while, I get sucked into these debates about the best brewery in the province, or the country, or the world, but really, it comes down to individual products and personal tastes. It's tough to put a brewery above all others when so many make delicious beers, but I can easily compare two IPAs or two dry-hopped kettle sours, or two business models.

I've heard Brasserie Dunham ranked in the tops of the province or the country many times, but that all depends on the criteria we use to assess them. They, deservedly and once again, made ratebeer's list of the world's top 100 breweries for 2016. But where they rank specifically is so subjective. Regardless, that success is certainly merited!

One thing is for certain to me though: Dunham leads the (Canadian) charge in thoughtful experimentation driving forward the beer scene for all of us, bringing up those influenced by them rather than simply competing against them. The innovations brought by founder Sébastien Gagnon, brewmaster Eloi Deit, and sommelier Simon Gaudreault don't always result in success (though they usually do), but they always inspire, advance, and propel the ideas of what beer is and can be!

How you may ask? Well, it starts with their forward-thinking blogger/beer media scene invite to taste their products ahead of their pending May 13 Bottle Release Party (details here and here), and it continues with their ticketed, lineup-reduced, well planned release events, but it carries forward mostly into their beers, often weaving mixed fermentations, barrel-aging, fruit, blends, and funk. What's not to like?

I'll leave you to read through the specifics of the beers on the order page, aside from what I add below, but we were able to grab a sneak peak of 7 beers (6 from the release and one other) and I offer some preview thoughts below. Note that despite the invite, I will critique where I feel criticism is needed and, indeed, Simon asks me to do so as he insists their invite is partially for such reflection and not simply to demand unwarranted praise.

What I loved:

Most of them! I also enjoyed the latest incarnation of Cyclope Dzeta (pictured above) and Ask For Paul (brewed for the Toronto Comic Arts Festival), but these beers are not a part of the release and so won't be thoroughly reviewed here.

Viti Vini Vici: Cuvée of Coussergues

This 5.6% ABV Saison is the first in a series of local (semi-)collaborations in which Brasserie Dunham will showcase local wine grapes, through a process of cold fermentation with the must before a lengthy (in this case 5.5 month) barrel-aging process before brett re-fermentation (in this case with four different brett strains plus whatever existed on the grape skins to begin with). Though the plan is to showcase grapes and barrels from the same wineries, it was impossible this time, though the grapes here are of the Vidal variety (often used for ice wines) from L'Orpailleur (one of Quebec's earliest wineries).

The base beer here is Dunham's classic Saison Rustique, but that won't be obvious to any but the most seasoned imbiber as this beer has transformed majestically. The nose is boldly aromatic wafting an exhilarating complement of vinous notes, wood, and that funky bretted white wine character that is unique and difficult to describe but which simply shines when wild yeast, barrels, and white wine are allowed to coalesce in a funky beer. There is a fermenting fruit quality to it, though it also has more than a passing resemblance to the nose of Assemblage 1: Sauternes. Perhaps there is something about these sweeter grapes providing a specific sugar for the brett, but whatever it is, it smells seductively enticing! Perhaps, to be even more precise, it presents what I am starting to understand to be Dunham's classic signature funk, and the development of such a complex signature is a sign of maturity from this relatively young brewery.



Up front the taste brings a moderately tannic but quite musty and fruity white wine character. Though inviting up front, I find it gets fairly muted and non-descript with a lightly watery finish that is a slight let-down after the nose. There is a faint linger. It is supported by a medium body, but feels lighter due to fairly low carbonation and the mild flavour-finish. Don't get me wrong, this isn't problematically low carbonated or entirely bland, however, Simon assures me it should both funk up and continue to carbonate as our bottles were extremely fresh.


Minor critiques aside, this beer is unique, innovative, aromatic, and tasty, while delicate and nuanced, not to mention that it embodies a spirit of collaboration in showcasing local wineries. It is precisely the model of Dunham innovation that I adore, even if I think the execution here is merely good and not yet perfected. I remain as excited for the evolution of this specific beer, as I do to the evolution of this line.

Grisettonosaure à l'argousier

 

Despite being called a grisette, with a saison base and at nearly 6% (5.8) ABV, this might better be called a saison. It does, however, drink easily as if lighter. Based on a grisette/saison brewed in collaboration with Le Cheval Blanc for their 30th Anniversary, this beer evolves with weizen yeast pitched after two days of primary fermentation, with the addition of Sea Buckthorn, and with aging in white wine barrels.

And, WOW, is it wonderfully aromatic! The nose presents an enticing bouquet that dominates the first flight (Ask For Paul, Viti Vini Vici, and this were presented first). It expresses notes of funky wet wood, with some floral esters, and a tannin-forward vinousness. Oddly, though the nose here is the boldest of the three at the pour, it becomes the most muted after 15 minutes on the table as the aromatics express rapidly, but seem to diminish just as quickly. It, likewise, brings a characteristic Dunham funk quality that I find both appealing and evidence of a brewing maturity.

In the mouth, I get a slightly tannic quality with a low level of spicy phenols complemented by what I imagine are the fruity elements of sea buckthorn - not that I have ever tasted it outside of a beer - before a nicely dry finish with a moderate (and I'd say perfect) level of tartness. Oddly, though I wouldn't call the tannins high, they stand out despite this beer following my tasting of VVV above. Carbonation is moderate, but should still be picking up a bit, and though it smells bolder than it tastes, it is delectably dry, tart, and crushable now with the promise of increasing funk over time.

Oro Zuur - Batch 3 (Mosaic)

 

 This batch of Dunham's barrel-aged dry-hopped sour is a treat once again! Unlike the original Oro Zuur (with Mosaic), this is less sour overall, but perhaps more funky on the nose. The nose here has a deep level of the noted characteristic funk complemented minimally by some berry and tropical fruit-forward hops. Unlike some dry-hopped sours that are full of (clean) fruit without funk, this is more funk with a hint of fruit. There is a trace of wood underneath, but it is aromatically dominated by something like musty sour fruity candies.

Tastewise, it is much more muted up front than past versions but ends with a musty, mildly tart, quenching signature that is evident in many of these beers, and it is very, very enjoyable. The beginning here is a bit fruitier than in other elements, where mild strawberries and shades of lemon zest come to mind.

The carbonation and feel are both moderate, to moderately full, but somehow the dryness and finish (not to mention delightful flavours) still invite drinking over sipping!

I don't find the differences between batches of Oro Zuur to be too large, but I do believe I slightly prefer this more funky version to the more sour versions that preceded it. Regardless, I can't see anyone who enjoyed the others being turned off here as the strengths all remain, if in slightly different proportions.

Berliner Dragon Weisse

Dunham's Berliners just keep getting better and better! This latest incarnation presents a gorgeous pink hue, with a head that lingers and laces despite the bolder carbonation of the style.

Aromatically, it is milder than expected, but still offers a pleasing nose characterized by the dragon fruit. It doesn't smell very sour, as a kind of floral and fruity quality takes over. Though I am unfamiliar with dragon fruit, I would say it comes a bit close to kiwi in my assessment of the nose. Again, being unfamiliar with the base fruit, I'll also add that I get something on the nose that smells almost artificial, but not in a bad way. Though it doesn't smell at all like cherries, I mean artificial in the way that maraschino cherries smell a bit different than unaltered fruit. This isn't off-putting in the least, rather it is simply descriptive of something I lack the language precision to otherwise explain.

Tastewise, this offers a massive fruity character up front before evolving with a decent acidity and dryness that spreads across the palate. The carbonation is bold, as it should be, but somehow there is an oilyness to the feel that works excellently as it seems to stick the beer against my entire mouth forcing a linger of fruit and moderate acidity as I swallow. Somehow, this just works perfectly with this beer!

Oddly, despite an actual final pH of 2.86, this beer doesn't feel that sour in perceived acidity, and it remains super crushable and refreshing! This may have been my favourite sample of the evening!

Saison Cassis Reserve Brandy - Single Barrel

This gorgeous beer (pictured above beside its Tokai barrel counterpart) is super fruit-forward, with the nose offering that bitter-sweet currant aroma alongside a fair bit of alcoholic heat. As it warms, there is a very, very faint trace of what I identify as fusels, though I am told it is likely the fruit (but I am sceptical - see the Tokai review below).

Though it smells quite hot, you cannot taste the booze at all, as the currants dominate in the mouth. Less tart and less acidic than past versions, but the fruitiness complements this moderately low sourness with a full body that creates an excellent sipping treat. I would imagine this too shall still carb up some, but even if it doesn't, the body is truly juicy making for an excellent refreshment nonetheless!

What I hated:

Saison Cassis Reserve Tokai

Okay, hate is a strong word, but this had off-putting qualities to me. WARNING: do not read below if you don't want to have this and a few others beer ruined for you by the power of aroma suggestion!

This has a fairly bold chemical smell underneath the fruit. There is some of that in the Brandy version, but it falls deeply behind the fruit whereas here I get it immediately. It has two characteristics that are equally off-putting to me:

First, it has fusel components. Again, I am told it isn't fusels, but I taste them as well and I have come to be accustomed to these in a few failed homebrews that got too hot in primary. Representatives from the brewery insist it may have been a by-product of the fermented fruit, but I do not get this from any other version of this product and there were even more heavily fruited versions in the past.

Second, there is an expression - perhaps from the fruit as from the flowers in Cantillon's Mamouche - that comes across as insect repellent to me. Once, at a Cantillon tasting, someone pointed this out and everyone else present wound up able to smell nothing else after, and now I am unable to not notice it whenever I smell Mamouche. I am sorry if my description does this for you, but despite my general love of tokai barrels and of other variants of this beer I cannot help but be disappointed in whatever happened to this product. Do let me know if you agree once you smell and taste it.

That said, the yeast and bacteria in this beer could continue to transform it, and I'd be excited if they did so, but as it stands, this beer wasn't for me.



Regardless, as noted, Dunham continues to innovate and their experiments are almost entirely successful, this time no less than always! Despite my dislike of one beer, I remain enthralled by the others such that you know where to find me on May 13!