The Empress Wields a Wooden Stick: Reviewing Le Trou du Diable's Barrel-Aged l'Impératrice

One of the true delights about beer in its ongoing boom is the innovation that obliterates style descriptors, often resulting in new categories altogether or simply standing alone.  For me, Le Trou du Diable's l'Impératrice Brassin Spècial stands alone in this in many ways.  That doesn't make it the best beer I have ever had, nor even in its 'styles' or their fringes, but rather in blending marvelously that which I adore from their specifications.

As I disclaimer, I have never had the regular, non-barrel-aged release of this 9% ABV Russian Imperial Stout, that is presumably named in honour of Catherine the Great, whose stout appreciation helped brewers develop the style.  Nor have I had this barrel-aged variant fresh, as its rarity meant I have only once had the chance to purchase it - with a bottle per person limit that had eroded before I could return.

This bottle is dated 07/2013 and is being consumed as I type this, from a bulbous Bellwoods pint tulip, in November 2014.

It pours a deep, dark brown with a fine, yet audible mocha head of poor retention.  Scant remnants encircle the surface rim, but most recedes rapidly as the carbonation seems to depart slightly in the dissipation of this fizzy cap.

Upon initial pour, the nose wafts vanilla, some fruit, and no slight amount of must or wood qualities.  The barrel is initially ever-present and the vinous nearly infected (in a good way!) microflora presence is inviting to those who like such a thing.  The woodiness is quite intense with wet oak, and moderate to heavy bourbon vanilla notes.  As the head rapidly dissipates and (or?) the glass warms, the seeming infection and wood presence give way somewhat allowing the vanilla bourbon notes to come forward more while supported by a faint cacao roast character.  As a slight critique, the warmth comes through a touch more than desired at this point too, but it remains delightfully enticing either initially or afterwards, though it almost shifts so distinctly as to front a different beer.

Taste-wise this excites me most after an inviting aroma of fair complexity and substance.  It starts with a cofee-esque roastiness with a hint of nuts, but it quickly gets acidic and tannic before a moderately hot, yet still acidic lengthy linger.  It isn't acidic in a sour way, but rather in a vinous, oaky, and intensified export-stout-sour-kinda-way, but holy shit is it present and re-inviting.

The body is a touch thin for the style, especially for a BA variant,  while the carbonation is also a touch mild (though I enjoy this in a common IS, it limits the funky spread this brew demands).  It isn't watery as the aggressiveness of the flavours spread and compensate, but neither is it thick and chewy as are the standard BA imperial stouts I dream of.

This is not even close to style representative.  If I rank by (non-BA) imperial stouts, it rates poorly, as the roast and body are so mild as to be unrepresentative.  While many barrel-aged imperial stouts seem rather to exemplify and highlight the strengths of the style, or at least bring the vanilla and bourbon front-and-centre rather than the wood and microflora, this is another beast entirely.  Thus, if I rate as BA imperial stouts, it fares better, though nonetheless oddly - as if mismatched once again.

Moreover, it isn't exactly in the realm of other sour imperial stouts (such as The Bruery's Tart of Darkness, Bellwoods' No Rest for the Wicked, or Dunham's Vladimir Sour Pussy Riot) which present much more acidity and tartness.  In this again, even if a better fit, it falters some, and yet...

And...

Yet...

If I rate it alone, as it's own beast, it's own marvel, a delight it is.  I can overlook the body, the audibly-receding head (if not for the funk it removes with it in its departure).  These knock it slightly, but I want more.  Please Lord, or Devil in your hole, please... give me more!  Grade: A

Beers You Can Actually Buy: Saisons

Continuing with the success of my Beers You Can Actually Buy Series, which considers regularly available and easier to find marvels of brewing mastery, I will here delve into the increasingly trendy Saison style.  In ways this is akin to the hipster beer of beer geekdom - not quite yet as trendy as IPAs (something to have been into before they were cool) but subtly a rising star in beer circles sought out by the underground crowd.

Saisons aren't the most well known of beer styles, or perhaps even the sexiest or most flamboyant, but they have a wide diversity of characteristics insofar as they remain a quintessential Belgian/French farmhouse style of beer that didn't have to conform to the Reinheitsgebot (The so-called German Beer Purity Law).  But the Americans drive the trends today much as some solid Belgian examples remain defining of the framework.

Saisons are a highly carbonated and lightly spicy form of Belgian/French pale ale that was brewed in the cooler months for storage and to be served to farm workers in the summer, with a traditionally low ABV (3-ish%), a finely dry quenching if mild bitterness, spicy yeasty phenols, and the crisp sort of sharp carbonation that helps quench one's thirst from a day in the fields.  There was great variance in the style and that variance remains today with an evolution towards higher ABVs (6-7%) generally (and even an Imperial Saison style), alongside some spicier representatives and some brewed with wild yeast (Brettanomyces) as they were historically or with barrel-aged variants.

By nature, these are seasonal ales, and some great examples are seasonally imported by the LCBO or brewed seasonally by finer brewers (such as Quebec's Brasserie Dunham who offers many seasonal Saison delights!).  Several strong examples, however, are thankfully available year-round in both Quebec and Ontario, and are exemplary ones to try for a solid first-take or pleasant re-visitation.

Ontario

Ommegang's Hennepin Farmhouse Saison (7.7% ABV) comes in $12.95 4-packs on regular list at the LCBO.  For me, personally, this is the quintessential saison, doing nothing immensely uniquely, but everything well.  There is no need to reinvent the wheel when your saison offers a lightly fruity nose with some earthy yeast present, and tastes of a lightly sour funk with some peppery spice and bold carbonation.  Just everything I want when I desire a saison!

I am torn mentioning Goose Island's Sofie insofar as Goose Island is now owned by AB-InBev (aka. Budweiser and then some), one of the big three macro brewers.  However, they have allowed this Chicago based brewery to continue doing what they do best and, by now qualifying as domestic under ridiculous import laws since the macro takeover, it is regular list at the LCBO for $9.95 for 765 ml of this delightful 6.5% ABV saison.  Sofie is a blend of 80% the base beer coupled with 20% of the same base beer aged in wine barrels with citrus rind and the result is a marvel!  I have been quoted many times as saying, "This is a beer to convert wine drinkers," and I have done so with it.  Its complexity is magnificent with some pepper, citrus, and vanilla qualities alongside just a teasing hint of sour grape mustiness that intrigues and entices.  One of my favourite beers on the planet and it will evolve in the bottle (upright in a cool dark place) for up to 5 years.  Buy it, try it, support its continued availability... and then support your local microbrewery to keep the experimental, local scene (from which beers like Sofie arose) alive.

Quebec

Charlevoix's Dominus Vobiscum Saison (6% ABV) is, like everything brewed by Charlevoix, a pleasant treat with a signature yeast profile.  This excellent Quebec brewery has a line (of their Quad, "Hibernus," Saison, and delightful Belgian IPA, "Lupulus") that comes in gorgeous, wine-like 750ml bottles, with the saison retailing at better Quebec beer stores for around $10 plus tax and deposit.  Lemon and rind notes are more prevalent than spice, with a nice yeasty earthiness and crisp effervescence.  A classic example - like much from this brewery - that does everything well in a standard way without any wheel reinvention.

Le Trou du Diable's Saison du Tracteur (7% ABV) is another fairly representative example, where the spicy yeast is complemented by a drier earthy hoppiness than in most of the widely available options.  Though perhaps my least favourite on this list, that says little as this is still a fantastic beer (since the list is so strong!) and is perhaps the most affordable (or comparable to the Hennepin) making for a regular treat to stock in the fridge.  This standard delight comes in 341ml or 750ml bottles at finer Quebec deps and beer stores for a reasonably low price point.

Goose Island's Sofie (see Ontario above) is now also available in Quebec - so far exclusively at IGAs - but comes with the same caveat: a must buy and a must move on.  Glad its here, but not as glad as I am for Quebec's local micro marvels (such as Dieu du Ciel, Hopfenstark, Dunham, Charlevoix, Les Trois Mousquetaires, Le Trou du Diable, Le Castor, Benelux, etc).

'Til next we drink again... cheers!

Oktoberfest des Quebecois: Standouts and Observations

This past weekend, I attended the Oktoberfest des Quebecois in Repentigny.  (Everyone always says, "what is with the Oktoberfests in September?"  Well, not only does the original Oktoberfest happen mostly in September only ending in October, but Canada seems to have a climate more conducive to outdoor festivals occurring in September than October.)

As this event occurred a week after the Chambly Festival, Bières et Saveurs, and a week before Zwanze Day, I had to choose between the two festivals and I don't regret my choice!

Free buses from Montreal's metro stations Honoré-Beaugrand and Radisson helped get us safely to and from the site.  The festival grounds was the Parc de l'Île-Lebel which is a gorgeous peninsula jutting out into the St. Lawrence River.  Though warm enough the day was overcast, limiting our enjoyment of the sun, but helping prevent the bouts of sunstroke often seen when the sun aligns with copious booze consumption.

Though we missed the bands, a solid lineup of Tequila Gang Band, A Beatles Tribute, Seven Bags of Bricks (Flogging Molly tribute), Bernard Adamus,  and Nicolas Pellerin et les Grands Hurleurs assured good times for drinkers and non-drinkers alike.  Similarly, the festival tone was family-friendly complete with a family zone comprised of rides and games.

But, this time, the family stayed home freeing me from such obligations and allowing me to focus on my other love... good beer.

As always, I shared far too many samples to comment entirely, but I will simply point out that which amazed, inspired, or was otherwise noteworthy.

Top beers of the day (for me and my crew) follow, before my surprise discovery of note:

Boquébière's Rouge à l'Érable (8.5% Flanders Red Style Ale with Maple): this beer was a marvellous delight as a fantastic Quebec interpretation of the style offering a great acidic and woody nose, with a nice puckeringly tart flavour that is spread across the tongue by an ample carbonation allowing a fully sour, lingering experience!  There is but a trace of the maple sweetness, making this beer a surprising delight as I was worried the maple would overpower the tartness, and I am pleased to say that it doesn't!  Grade: A/A+

Les Trois Mousquetaires' Double IPA (Draught version at 8.3% ABV).  Yeah, yeah, I reviewed this here.  But I still had to note how great this draught version was, what with it being cloudier and a bit earthier, while still fucking fantastic!  Grade: A

Le Trou du Diable's l'Apocalypse (7.5% White IPA): I have heard a few folks say this isn't as good once it warms a little and some flaws become discernible, I didn't let mine get warm enough to speak with certainty, since I devoured its delectable citrus and passion-fruit flavours coupled with the like nose.  This beer is unfiltered and cloudy, and more amber-coloured than the name would suggest, with a nice bold effervescence.  I hope this gets bottled so I can devour it cold and also try it warmed a touch!  Grade: A-/A

Les Trois Mousquetaires' Randall-Infused American Barleywine (11% ABV).  This beer, originally, is a delight with an excellent dry-hopped nose adding piney-earthy complexity to the malty fruity aromas.  Though quite sweet throughout, bordering on Scotch Ale territory, it begins with a port-like sweetness evolving towards a dryness supplied by warmth.  Quite creamy, quite substantially-bodied, quite hoppy, and simultaneously quite sweet and, hence, quite unique and enjoyable!  The un-replicable Randall the Enamel Animal version tapped here, however, brings a freshness and even hoppier grassy aroma, while the taste becomes earthier and a bit drier, but simultaneously a bit wheat-grassy.  This was my first Randall experience and, though I can't say I liked the beer more (liking the taste less and the nose more), I appreciated the evolution and I look forward to imbibing more Randall infusions in the future!  Grade: A-/A (Though I'd give the original an A)

La Succursale's Angus IP<<AAA>> (7% ABV).  Yes, I have reviewed this before, but am reminded of how pleasurable it truly is to drink when consumed alongside other marvels once again and still holding its own!

Lagabière's brewing brothers, Francis and Sébastien Laganière

Finally, when our day was drawing to a close, we discovered Lagabière, a 6-month old brewpub in Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu.  Named as a play on words from the surname of the brewing brothers, Francis and Sébastien Laganière, this new brewery surprised!  I can't say I adored any of their beers, but all were very solid (B+/A- range mostly for me, with none below that)!  I tried seven of their products and cannot wait to get to their location to try more!  Of note, I most enjoyed their Bomb IPA (probably close to an A), their Evel Knievel American Pale Ale, and their Spout-Nic Russian Imperial Stout, while one of my company adored their l'Alegonquienne (Spruce Ale).

By way of critique, I'd say they haven't stepped out of the bounds of the norm yet, but they have taken a strong route assuring that they can brew the standards which makes a strong base for any good brewpub.  Their beers are well-crafted, if a slight bit on the lighter-bodied side at times, while their (beer, and I guess personal) names are great and their promise is high!  Check them out!  Seriously!

In conclusion, this festival truly showcased much of what is great in the Quebec beer scene, and yet that was just the beginning of a wider festival celebrating culture and prolonging the end of a great summer festival season!  Though with limitations on my time, I chose Beau's Oktoberfest last year and Oktoberfest des Quebecois this year, next year I must plan for Chambly instead.  However, I mention this not to critique this wonderful event, which would be difficult indeed, but rather to note why I will try all that the region has to offer in beer and, so far, the more I discover, the more I admire!  If you haven't attended these events, you won't regret any of their delights and I strongly encourage you to support your local beer scene.

'Til next time... Santé!

PS: Thanks to Beerism for the pictures (as their phone/camera is MUCH better than mine).  Watch for their pending Oktoberfest review as well!

3 Beers You Probably Can't Get Alongside 3 You Probably Can & Should

Occasionally, I get my hands on a rare obscure brew and ponder whether to review.  I mean, 'nothing' (I say facetiously, in a First-World-Problems-kinda-way) pisses me off more than reading about someone's epic Dark Lord or Bourbon County Brand Stout vertical tasting when I can't even get a single bottle, let alone several years' worth of vintages!

But, I rationalized, some might wish to know of the obscure and to appease those wishing for something they can find, I figured I'd place them alongside some others that are more easily procured.  Ironically, many of these beers linked together for me in their consumption and, thus, they also offer a connected story weaving together the obscure with the available.

To begin with the more obscure, my recent indulgence began at Toronto's world-class Bar Volo, where a (reconnected old) friend and I split a bottle of Le Trou du Diable's fantastic barrel-aged La Bretteuse (7.3% ABV).  This one-off brew is an 18-month Shiraz-barrel aged IPA that is perhaps better called an American Wild Ale, since it is secondarily fermented with loads of Brettanomyces (wild yeast) and since IPAs lose their hoppy edge very rapidly.  Indeed, this brew is dominated by Brett but in more of a leathery, barnyard funk sense than a sour/acidic/tart sense.  It presents a murky orange body capped by a foamy white head that lingers and laces down the glass while exuding an evolving aroma beginning with leather before transforming towards more soured vinous notes.  There is a nicely vanilla/oaky woody taste up front that evolves into a linger that balances somewhere between the wine and the barnyard Brett.  This is a fine beer and one to convert wine drinkers, if neither the driest nor the tartest of the style it remains a stellar product exemplary of wild-brewing mastery.  Grade: A  Availability: Sold out in stores, but available in pricey bottles at higher end beer bars.

The very same long-lost friend (and fellow beer geek) who shared the delightful bottle of La Bretteuse then agreed to a trade: I give him a bottle of Trappist Westvleteren 12 (their Quad) in exchange for one of his Westvleteren 8s (8% ABV).  Thus, I finally got to try the famed Westy Dubbel, which impressed immensely with a caveat (at the end).  A creamy, thick, porous off-white head of good retention and thick, clingy, sticky lace wafted a complex aroma of plums, raisins, licorice, brown sugar, and a hint of boozy warmth.  To the tongue, it was similar with dark fruits and some chocolate more discernible here than in the nose, though with a touch of anise and a faint hint of tobacco.  There is a fair warmth and a smooth creaminess to the tongue despite its strong carbonation that smooths it out nicely.  Like the famed Westy 12, however, I think Rochefort offerings (8 and 6)  top this, as I feel the 10 trumps the 12.  This isn't to say this isn't a fine beer - it is indeed worthy of its praise - but rather for two reasons: 1) The Westys are both a bit boozier on the nose and tongue to me; and 2) The Westy's offer more anise notes - which is fine, but for my personal preference isn't as desirable as some of the other notes I love in a good dubbel.  Thus, I respect and I enjoy this beer, but personal taste preferences on this flavour limit my enjoyment here, though they may result in a switched preference for you... still great to even be in the same discussion!  Grade: A Availability: Get your ass to the monastery or be prepared to pay $30+ per bottle at higher end beer bars if you can even find it.

Finally, upon my return to Quebec, Dieu du Ciel announced on Facebook that this past Friday would mark the release of the Sun Never Sets IPA (7.25% ABV), a collaboration with Dogfish Head and Beavertown breweries from Delaware and London, England respectively.  This unique IPA blends Indian ingredients of special palm sugar, black pepper, tamarind, and cumin with the quintessential calypso and citra hops for a unique and pleasurable experience.  It pours a standard amber with a decent white head that emits a solid dry-hop citra nose with grapefruit and orange rind notes alongside an almost smoky-spicy pepper quality that takes over as the hops fades.  The taste begins with a tamarind sweetness before a combination pine and citrus finish that is emboldened by a substantial carbonation.  It is good, and unique, and can hold its own after Morality (possibly my favourite IPA which was on tap at DDC while I awaited the tapping of this unique keg), but probably got a lower review from me for following this other mostly-unavailable treat. Grade: A- Availability: one 20 litre keg killed in minutes at DDC, maybe Dogfish Head still has some if you get to Delaware?*

I was next going to review Morality, but having previously done so here, I decided to revert to my Ontario trip to begin mentioning the more-widely-available gems.  Two connected asides, however, still tie this is in.  First, as I have said I prefer Morality (collaboration between DDC and the Alchemist) to the Alchemist's famed Heady Topper some have noted the difference in styles (IPA and double IPA), while others have either agreed or disagreed so this next promises an alike comparison as I jump from IPA to DIPA.  Second, as this began as a partial baseball blog, it seems a shame that it took until now for me to try (and review) beer from Ontario's new(-ish) Left Field Brewery...

and... I have to say, their 6-4-3 Double IPA (8.4% ABV) is a hit and possibly Ontario's best double IPA so far.  Pouring an orangish-amber, it presents a fruity nose full of ripe, fresh citrus and mango alongside some hints of passion fruit and pineapple.  The taste begins with a substantial malt backbone of some bread, before a superbly dry and nearly astringent but complex and delectable grapefruit and lemon-rind finish, coupled with traces of resin and spruce.  On the fuller-side of medium-bodied with a moderate, yet tingly, carbonation, this is truly worth the quest of the hop-heads!  Grade: A (almost A+) Availability: Only on draught at Ontario locations noted on their website.

After my return home, some company prompted a re-visit to Les Trois Mousquetaires' Grande Cuvée Barleywine Américain (11% ABV), which I had had before (and which I have another cellaring bottle).  This remains a delight to me and all involved!  It pours a lightly cloudy reddish-amber, with a fair creamy white head of some retention and lace.  The nose is, of course, malty but coupled with nice citrus dry-hop notes that entice something like an American Strong Ale, before tastes that are predominantly sweet but at least lightly drying after a rich, almost-port-forward beginning and a dryness that is supplied mostly by the alcoholic warmth with only some semblance of the many American hops present.  It is creamy and full to the tongue, if a tad sticky.  Though a bit sweet, it is a barleywine and the dry-hopped nose adds a pretty enticing character.  If you get one, get two and stand one up in your cellar for a year or two noting the changes - I promise my own notes on that transition in, well, a year or two!  Grade: A (almost A+) Availability: Seasonal in Quebec at decent beer stores/deps.

Finally, Brouwerij Bockor's Cuvee des Jacobins Rouge (5.5% ABV) has been a mainstay of my vacation time as an available (for a short time summer seasonal) and affordable sour, in the Flander's Red Style.  This beer pours a reddish-brown with a slight foamy off-white head that diminishes quickly with strong carbonation.  The nose is moderately fruity, in a cherry sort of manner, with a fairly acidic balsamic aroma alongside hints of woody oak.  Flavour-wise, it is dominated by a strong fruitiness coupled with substantial tartness presenting as cherries and currants alongside some vanilla from the wood, while all through (from beginning to end) one gets a solid amount of acidity and clean sourness, without any semblance of funk.  This is a very solid example of the style and one I would love to try alongside a Rodenbach just to compare, though I think this is more tart, if a touch less complex (from memory).  Grade: A/A+ Availability: Summer seasonal at the LCBO - their stock page says discontinued but many stores retain stock at a mere $3.30 per bottle (which is very cheap for a several-years-oak-aged sour ale).

'Til next time, drink well (and responsibly)!  Cheers!

*Note: While waiting, the excellent barkeep at Dieu du Ciel, named Julie, answered questions, helped my French, ensured we got prompt service, kept the busy taps flowing, and generally served as an example of a wonderful human being.  I told her I'd write that she deserves a raise - which she does - and being a man of my word, I have now done so!